Friday, August 28, 2009

Really Closing this Chapter...

Well, after my lists post I never got around to posting anymore thoughts - I think I just threw myself back into US life so wholeheartedly this summer that my mind was honestly not on retrospectively blogging about Italy - I was really all here.

So I'm doing this now. It's a good time for it - I head back to school in a few days, summer is ending, and I'll be moving on even more from my time abroad.

As you can probably tell, the adjustment back to home was actually really easy. I've been really this summer spending time with family and friends, I've been lucky enough to go on some incredible vacations, and in between I've been planning my wedding and preparing for LSATs (recently anyway). Sometimes I wonder if it's a bad thing that adjusting back to home was so easy - that I could leave Italy in the past like that and be 100% happy to be here where I was. I think there were two aspects that made me feel uneasy about that - for one, when I was dreaming of my time abroad before I got to go, I think I fancied myself more independent than I found out I was. I'm an only child, I think of myself as being good at being alone and on my own. But I found out in some of my most difficult times last year that being abroad made me feel alone in a whole different way - one I would prefer to avoid in the future. Also, having such an easy adjustment made me wonder if I had failed at really digging into Italian life, if I had failed to somehow put myself out there enough.

But whenever I have these thoughts, I tend to banish them with a few other thoughts... In a very pragmatic sense, it is what it is - I can't go back and thus I can't have regrets. My experience was what it was and I did learn so many things about myself, about what's important to me, and about other people and other places. Also, I have to give myself a break. I was there for nine months and I didn't come home at all, not even once. That's a long time. And what's more, I had so much to come back to. I had a wonderful family, I had the love of my life/fiance who I hadn't seen in months, some amazingly special friends, and so many other blessings. Being away taught me to value all these things to an extent that I had never been able to before, so when I got home I really soaked it all up.

And on being alone/lonely - I realized that my late teens and early twenties have been largely characterized by being around people a lot - my roommates, my fiance and his family, and many other big groups. And with all the love in my life, maybe it's fair to say that I need my people, I relish their love and support and friendship. And you know what, that's okay. As long as I never take them for granted, I think I'm good.

But don't misconstrue what I'm saying - I wouldn't take this year back. I wanted to study abroad since I was in high school, and arranged my studies around that plan. It was an experience that appealed to me on so many levels - especially the aspect of learning and living in another language. As the year went on I realized I had to congratulate myself on having the strength to get myself out there and do it. So many people told me throughout the year that it was something they couldn't have done, or that they couldn't have done at my age (in the case of my father). I think at times I realized, and still do, that I had to not be so hard on myself about some things and just really see how far I had come in simple ways. And my Italian did get really good. It does make me proud.

I also wouldn't take back all the opportunities I had to travel. I know so many people want to go to the destinations I visited and never have the chance to go. I will always have fond memories of trips to London, Spain, and Zurich, plus the opportunity to travel all over Italy. These are life experiences that I'm so lucky to have under my belt at my young age, and I try to stay very aware of that.

Okay, so a few more lists are in order I think... first a list of my summer vacation(s). Yes, vacations, I'm so lucky.

1. New Jersey. I know it doesn't sound exotic, but I visited Dave while he was briefly shadowing an FBI agent who graduated from WP. Since he wasn't working all day, I was able to spend time with him when he was done with each day. It was the first time we got to see each other since January 3, and we reunited on June 7. I was so glad to be able to see him so soon after I arrived home. Clearly it made us both very happy!

2. Oregon. For the first time in three years, I got to go back to Ashland, Oregon for the Oregon Shakespeare Festival with my grandparents and a large group of their friends and extended friends. Ashland is an amazing little town surrounded by beautiful scenery, and the festival is so well run. It's a really special place to me because I went to OSF every summer from when I was 12 to when I was 18... and I finally got to go back this year. It was great. I even got to participate in our wine tasting outing since I'm now of age!

3. New Zealand and Samoa. Yes, I know! Crazy! Basically this trip's purpose was to be there for my mom's and my cousin Josie's wedding in Samoa. My mom's aunt is married to a Samoan man, and they live in American Samoa and raised their three children there. Josie is the middle child (in her late 20s) and had her wedding in July in Western (Independent) Samoa. Due to a flight deal, my mom got us flight tickets through Auckland, New Zealand, so clearly we had to spend a little time there. My mom and I had a blast exploring Auckland, then island hopping from one Samoa to the other and of course spending time with family. Samoa has so much scenery that is just quintessential paradise - including the resort where Josie got married. I'd also never been to Samoa but of course always knew my relatives were from there. It was great to be there for Josie's special day and have a wonderful vacation as well!

4. North Carolina. In early August I went along with Dave's extended family (mom's side) to the Outer Banks for a week to celebrate his grandparents' 50th anniversary! We were right near the beach, and had a ton of people - it was certainly exciting and fun! As bonus, they actually threw us a surprise engagement party in the middle of the week, so we have already started collecting wedding gifts - having a Kitchen Aid sitting in my room causes another "hey I'm really getting married" moment, I have to say!

In the past month I've been blessed to spend a lot of time with Dave. We were both home for a week (hasn't happened in a long time), then there was NC, and then we've seen each other at WP the past couple weekends. Now it seems that I'll probably see him tomorrow and Saturday too! I really love all these bonus visits, and of course I treasure (or try to treasure) all this time after going 4 and then 5 months without seeing him.

And one more list... I think I will call it things I'm going to do in the next year. Brace yourselves (I need to brace myself!)

1. Take the LSAT. Next month!
2. Apply to law school. Not long afterward!
3. Enjoy my senior year of college to the fullest. Treasure the small silly moments and the fun exciting moments with my four lovely roommates - and all my awesome friends at school.
4. Take two semesters of Arabic. I hope.
5. Get into law school. I hope.
6. Find out what branch of the Army Dave is going to be in (November) and find out what his first post is (February).
7. Graduate from college. I hope. ;-) (Don't worry Mom and Dad, it'll happen!)
8. Get married! No big deal, just major life events, that's all. By the way, that happens three weeks after graduation.
9. Honeymoon.
10. Move to a brand new place - quite possibly Georgia. With my husband... yes, husband.

And that's where I might well be in a year! I'm still trying to wrap my brain around it, and I will be planning for it, but I know I need to stop and smell the proverbial roses too. As excited as I am for next year, I'm really pumped for this year too, and I know it's going to be over way faster than it seems now.

Okay - I think this is quite enough rambling I've done. If you have still been checking this blog at all, I hope it brings you some closure. I think it has brought me some. :-)

Not sure when I will be out in the blogosphere next... I seem to have a habit of starting blogs and then waning off (see my posting frequency second semester), so I'll have to be committed to whatever the next one is. But it could happen, we'll see.

Thanks to you all for your comments and compliments and just generally sharing my year with me. I enjoyed writing on its own, but it was nice to know that I wasn't writing for no one.

I guess that's all! Molte grazie!

Saturday, June 6, 2009

Lists

Well, here are those lists I promised you all! While I am home now (yay) I wrote these up during my last full day in Florence - Thursday - while I was sitting sort of near the river during my good-bye walk. They actually turned into three - things I won't miss, things I will miss, and things I was looking forward to. Without further ado...

Things I Won't Miss about Florence
- Having to forever watch my step in case there was evidence of dogs on the ground - many people do not clean up after their own dogs!
- Being accosted by random unpleasant smells while walking along the streets
- Sidewalks that are glorified curbs and therefore really difficult to navigate when sharing them with people and the narrow streets with cars, buses, bicycles, and motorinos.
- Things just not functioning - the university, the trains, the list goes on
- Feeling like my guard was always up in order to protect myself in a foreign country
- Not having a kitchen in which I could store food and cook whenever I wanted - this was the downside of the fact that my host family provided me with so many meals
- The unfamiliar system of schooling, replete with deciding things at the last second, having to wait on the day of an exam for everyone else to go ahead of me, and always wondering if something unexpected and inconvenient would arise
- The constant threat of one-day strikes - be the the train or the bus - and the uncertainty caused by wondering if they would truly be striking or not
- Having to buy everything in euros. I never paid attention to the exchange rate because I had to buy things no matter what! I'm much more fond of the dollar's exchange rate with my bank account.
- Walking through a cloud of smoke every time I exited a building, or being stuck behind someone smoking on the sidewalk.
- Guys trying to sell me things on the street all the time - purses, sunglasses, umbrellas if it's raining, pictures, and so on and so forth

Things I Will Miss about Florence
- My host family
- My host mother's (Cristina's) cooking
- My "host dog" - Briciolo
- My rather comfy Florence bed
- Days where the sky was beautiful and pleasant and blue
- Piazzale Michelangelo and its view
- Gelato, Italian wine (cheaper than soda!), and the food in general
- Easy access to beautiful destinations in Italy
- The atmosphere around the Ponte Vecchio and the river at night
- Walking by the Duomo as a matter of daily routine
- The scenery in general - cypress trees, beautiful hills, and the gorgeous country even just outside Florence

Things I'm Looking Forward To
(or was looking forward to and am enjoying now)
- Watching TLC and the Food Network
- Free, unlimited internet (free to me anyway!)
- Quality time with family and friends - I learned to value it so much more this year!
- Snuggling with my David
- Trips planned this summer with family - I'm so lucky!
- Working on planning the wedding
- Going back to Georgetown - its atmosphere, its people, its classes and much more
- Shopping at CVS
- Familiar stores to shop for clothes etc (Target among others)
- More ethnic food choices - Thai, better sushi, better Mexican, etc
- Listening to the radio while driving - and driving in general
(I drove for the first time in nine months today, crazy!)

So there you have it - maybe that gives you a snapshot of where my head has been during this transition. In the next couple days, I hope to post about my trip home and about how being home has actually been. Tomorrow I am going to New Jersey to see David for the first time since January 3! Needless to say I'm just a tad excited to finally spend some quality time with him again... Hope you enjoyed the lists!

Wednesday, June 3, 2009

Done with school and almost with the year!

Wow, somehow I've arrived here and I only have two days left in Italy! Sorry again that I've been so slow with the blogging... but for whatever reason I've just been less motivated. So I'll try my best to catch you up in a sort of brief way.

From where I left off, in mid-May I was able to spend a few days in the Tuscan countryside with my grandparents, which was great. For the second week of their stay, they rented a house in a small town called Lucciana, with their friends Rhonda and David. The house itself was great and had a view, and during my time there we went to Volterra, Chianti (all over the region), and Montalcino, where the famous red wine Brunello is made. It was such a luxury to be able to do all these things that are much harder without the use of a car, even when the Tuscan countryside has been so close all year. All the towns were beautiful and quaint, and we had some lovely nights in Casole d'Elsa, which is near Lucciana. Another thanks to my grandfather for driving me and us all around in the rental car! :-)

The weekend after my time in Tuscany with my grandparents, Eva and I went to Viareggio because she wanted to go to the beach. We ended up walking for a verrrryyy long time to get to the free access beach (as opposed to paying for access) but it was worth it when we got there. We spent a good couple hours on the beach, ate our snacks that we'd bought at the supermarket, and went in the water. Even compared to two weeks prior, the water temperature was definitely warmer and it was really nice to spend some time in the sea... and it was good to have a fun outing day with Eva.

Last Wednesday, I got two of my exams done with. I just had to officially get the grade for one subject, since I'd already done the paper and presentation. Then with the same professor I had an actual exam, and that went really well. It was a relief to have 2 out of 3 classes out of the way!

Last Saturday, I cooked for my host family once again. I made guacamole and quesadillas, and oatmeal chocolate chip cookies (or "biscotti americani"). Everything went over really well, especially the guacamole and cookies. Since some of Cristina's friends were over on a couple nights to taste the cookies, I got multiple recipe requests! Lisa also helped me cook a little and that was fun.

Today was my "Storia del Risorgimento" (history of Italian unification) exam. I'd also written a paper for that class, so part of the work was already done. The worst part of the whole thing was having to wait about 2 hours while others went, getting more nervous and just wanting to get it over with! (Most exams here are oral, so you go in one or two at a time.) I also ended up getting tested by my professor's assistant, and assistants have a reputation for being more difficult about exams, but mine went fine anyway. And with that, I've officially finished all my school here in Italy! It's a big relief and feels really good.

It's been strange, exciting, and slightly sad to process the fact that my time here is coming to an end. For a lot of this year, I've been really looking forward to going home, and I still am. I've come to appreciate home (the people and other things) in my time here, so I am looking forward to being there. Nine months is a long time! And as great as Italy is, it's never stopped being another country, and it could never be as much of a "comfort zone" for me as the US is.

I also have a lot to look forward to in the next chapter of my life. This summer I'm blessed to be going on some great vacations with family, I'll be planning my wedding and enjoying being home.
Then, I'll be going back to Georgetown for my last year. After a year here in Florence, I appreciate Georgetown more than ever before! And I'll be living with four amazing friends in an apartment! And of course, after that, I'm getting married which is obviously really exciting... I've reflected many times on all the blessings waiting for me.

At the same time, departure actually arriving is making me face some sad good-byes - my host family, Eva, Lucia, and the things I like about Florence in general. These good-byes have an added dimension that it's not clear when or if I will see these people again, which makes it a bit harder. Either way, I am just trying to soak things up as best I can so I can look back and know I appreciated everything here while I was still here. For example, I had gelato yesterday, today, and haven't ruled it out for tomorrow!

Pretty soon I am going to do another post in the form of two lists - things I will and will not miss about Florence/Italy. I think it will be a good reflection on my time here and hopefully it will be kind of funny too! And as for this blog in the future, I may post once or twice after I get home, but I created the blog for my year abroad, so I will probably stop posting sometime during the summer as I move on past the experience. In the meantime though, stay tuned for the lists!

Wednesday, May 13, 2009

Recent Anecdotes

Sometimes when things happen to me, I start to blog about them in my head. I think for this last month or so, I will try to get as many of those random little moments of Italy life up here as I can, starting with this post. Since lately lists seem fun, I will go with that.

1) Sunscreen. I got some sun this weekend, in a couple places more than I'd have liked. I had some to use, but as a group we did very badly at supplying ourselves. Lucia (aka Georgetown) bought some for all of us to use the second day. I figured it was better to supply myself with some so I am not caught without it again, so I headed to the supermarket, where I buy all of my personal care products. Sure enough, it was on a special display, but I noticed something odd. Most of the sunscreen was in very low SPF. It also comes in 20, which I am not sure if I have ever seen in the US. There was a lot of 20 and a lot of 15, a little 30 and a couple things of 50 (but possibly only in a kind advertised as for children). I think I ended up getting a 30 bottle. As I stood there I found myself musing on what this might reveal about Italian culture as compared to American - or is it because, on average, we are paler than they are? It could be, or maybe they just don't care about the risks of skin cancer as much. After all, they don't seem to care about lung cancer...

2) This is from our trip to Maremma too. On Saturday afternoon, we stopped for sandwiches on our way to the beach, in a small town near the sea in Southern Tuscany. Picture us rolling into the (basically empty) place - 5 American girls replete with sunglasses, tank tops, shorts, skirts, and bathing suits underneath, and two more adult Italian women. I know we may have been a sight at the moment. So then we go to ascertain what the sandwich options are. For one, Megan doesn't eat meat so Lucia asked what she could have. Mozzarella and tomato, was the answer. Oh, lovely. Someone else wanted that too. Then another person ventured, "I'd like prosciutto but with mozzarella instead of fontina (as he'd listed as a choice)." "Oh, no, I can't do that. Pecorino yes, but not mozzarella. Mozzarella with tomato. Okay, two mozzarella and tomato." At this point, he disappeared into the back! 5 of us were left without having ordered, hoping he would come back to find out what we wanted too. Lucia talked to another of the workers there and she went to investigate for us. When he returned, he related that there was only enough mozzarella and/or tomato for two of those. Ah, a bit more clear now. So the rest of us had to work around that... I went with pecorino and prosciutto. Yum.

As we sat down to eat, they turned the light on. I told you it was empty. All 5 of us Americans got Coke of some type or another (regular, "light", and zero) and we were asked more than once if we were sure we didn't want glasses with them. I found myself wondering exactly how uncouth we seemed to them, drinking straight out of the can...

Lucia mentioned that at times it's just... different, in a small town as opposed to the city. She and her friend Paola were as confused as we were by the seemingly arbitrary limits of choice. Come to find out, it's not high tourist season yet and they only have so much in terms of supplies... ah ok. And the next day, at a similar type of place, we were again limited by the types and quantity of bread available. I wondered if we prevented anyone else from getting a sandwich later in the day.

3) One of my tutors here is basically a socialist, and sometimes it gets difficult for Neza and I to deal with his often off-topic pontificating. (Our class is about Italian unification and today we got to learn a bit about Bosnia and all about Spain. For example.) Today though, he put a recent Italian political event in pretty good perspective, at least in my mind. Basically, the not-so-beloved Berlusconi has been in the news for his statements about illegal immigration. Recently the Italian authorities turned back a boat full of illegal migrants from Libya without screening for asylum requests, leading to outcry from the Pope, the UN, and others. You can read all about it here. Anyway, Alvaro (our tutor) was referring to why they come and how no legal measures will keep them out so long as they are motivated by basic survival and lack of food. He put it this way - "In Africa, they don't have much, but they have TVs. And they see the commercials. They see an American, or German, or Canadian housewife whose problem at the supermarket is deciding whether to feed their dog chicken or beef. And then, where their cat will use the bathroom, 10 types of this and that and the other thing... and yet in Africa they are dealing with problems like civil war and starvation." He went on, but basically he was saying that as long as there exist such poverty and desperate situations, the problem won't go away. And Alvaro also seems pretty peeved that Berlusconi is using this rhetoric when Italians themselves were desperate immigrants in huge quantities in the not too distant past. Plus, Italians don't do the difficult and physically demanding jobs - Italian industry depends on immigrant labor - something that the news articles speak of as well.

I don't know, it's interesting. As an American I'm very aware of the nature of these debates, but what really sort of offended me about Berlusconi was his saying that Italy is not a multi-ethnic country and shouldn't be one. Thinking of it, I guess that makes sense, coming from America, land of the melting pot.

Sometimes the opinions of Alvaro and others can verge on a bit outlandish, but at least they give me the opportunity to reflect on the world and what I believe - and a chance to understand what non-Americans think.

4) I did my presentation, and it went well, yay! It gave me a chance to pat myself on the back for the relative ease with which the language came to me, even in front of a group (albeit a small one).

5) Before the presentation, I was talking with Eva and with the Italians in my class, and the conversation went to pastries and gelato and food. Typical (in a good way!). It was nice to relate to them about good and bad gelato, etc. My recent visitors have made me quite the expert. Also, one of them verified that I was American and asked where I was from, causing Valentina (I happen to know her name and she is nice) to exclaim once more over how she would love to visit Washington DC. (I always say, from Connecticut but university is in Washington DC.) Also on la Ruota della Fortuna today, the trip prize was to New York. The man who won said he'd never been to the other side of the ocean before. Moments like that just reinforce for me that the exotic is not inherent in any one place or another - the exotic is the unknown, the difficult to reach, the far away. A trip to NYC is exotic for them, a trip to Chianti Country in Tuscany is exotic for us. The history and beauty of Florence fascinates me at times, and Valentina would think it was incredibly cool to visit the city that I've lived in for two years and will for one more (though I can't blame her, it's a great place!).

6) Today I succeeded at snapping up a couple of readings for my upcoming church art history exam. I know that may sound sort of banal to you, but trust me, when you've spent hours at la Biblioteca Nazionale and ended up with "we don't have this book" - you'll feel pretty great too, when you actually do procure things. I am so glad that libraries in the US are better than La Biblioteca Nazionale in Florence...

7) Tomorrow I am off to meet up with my grandparents and their friends David and Rhonda. I will take the train to get closer to where they've rented a villa, and they'll pick me up using their rental car. I know they've been to San Gimignano while I was busy, and maybe Siena as well. With them I will hopefully get to Volterra and the Chianti region. I feel really lucky that their visit can afford me the opportunity to visit some of the less accessible parts of Tuscany!

Hopefully you've enjoyed this somewhat random glimpse at life lately. A presto!

Tuesday, May 12, 2009

Long time, no blog...

Sorry everyone! This is starting to remind me of when I was younger, I could never keep a journal or diary going for very long at once, and that seems to be what is happening now... oops. A lot has happened in the past month or so, but I need to do the quick quick version in order to not spend forever on this! Something is better than nothing right?

1) Middle of April and Easter

Over Easter, a friend from Georgetown, Allie, came to Florence and I was able to spend some time with her! (Her blog is linked over there, she is studying in Paris.) It was really nice to see her and play tourist in Florence again. On Easter morning, we witnessed the festivities surrounding "Lo Scoppio del Carro" or the Explosion of the Cart. There was a really cool parade with costumes and oxen and the giant cart, and it culminated in front of the Duomo with what was essentially a pyrotechnics display. It's so great to know I took advantage of that experience! A few days later, I met up with Allie and a high school friend of hers who is studying in Florence and we did real aperitivo - where the price of a drink pays for a buffet where you can take as much as you want. Definitely a great deal and I hope to do it again before I leave!

2) Visiting with David's parents

Toward the end of April, Dave's parents (my future parents-in-law) took a two week trip to Italy and I spent the middle part of it with them. First up was a weekend in southern Italy which was great. I met them on a train in Rome and we continued to Naples, and from there we had a 2-hour guided visit of Pompeii before reaching our hotel in Sorrento. We spent one full day in Capri (the island off the coast) and another along the Amalfi Coast. For Capri, we had a guide, Ernesto, and as the other group didn't show it was a private tour for us. Having Ernesto really streamlined things and we got to do everything Dave's parents had on their list. Among the highlights were the Blue Grotto and the Mt. Solaro chairlift. Plus, the entire day was enriched by the fact that we had incredible weather - so lucky and beautiful! It was truly amazing scenery.

The Amalfi Drive outing they'd scheduled was cancelled due to some sort of road issues, but we ended up taking SITA, the Italian intercity bus service, to Positano and then Amalfi along the Costa Amalfitana, and that day turned out amazingly as well. We took our time exploring Positano, got our feet wet (literally), and had lunch overlooking the Mediterranean. Then we made our way to Amalfi and eventually had dinner there before heading back to Sorrento. I felt so lucky to have seen such beautiful places and with such great company! (Sidenote: I am lucky to be really fortunate in the in-laws I am gaining. Since I was 16 I've spent a lot of time with them and as such, they are already basically like family. Parents-in-law usually has such a negative connotation and luckily enough that isn't my situation!)

After the trip, Dave's parents spent a few days here in Florence and I saw them as much as I could in between classes. It all culminated with a lovely dinner with my host family and my visitors the last night they were here.

3) My grandparents' visit

Not long after Dave's parents' departure, my grandparents arrived in Florence! They got here on May 2 and much as before, I've been spending time with them where I can. I got to spend a night with Venice in them, which was great, last week. Now they've transferred to a villa in the Tuscan countryside, but once my school week is over I will head down there to spend a few days with them and their friends who came to Italy as well.

4) Group Georgetown trip

This past weekend, I went to Maremma, which is the southern part of Tuscany, with Lucia, her friend Paola (who provided a second car), and 4 of the 5 other Georgetown girls studying here this semester. It was lots of fun, and great to see some beautiful scenery in a part of Tuscany that isn't easily accessible without a car. We spent parts of both days at the beach, got to soak in some thermal springs, and stayed at a very nice "agriturismo" in the countryside.

5) School

School is actually playing a big part in my life right now, which I realize must shock you all from all the various vacations I've had. Today I have a presentation (I think I am good for it... let's hope so!), then over the next few weeks there are a couple papers to write and an exam to study for, plus finishing up sessions with my tutors for my classes. I will be officially done on June 3, which leads to my next topic...

6) My Impending Departure

There were times when it seemed like it would never happen. I've always known this was temporary, but back in September and October, June seemed a looooong way away. My departure is scheduled for June 5, giving me about 3.5 weeks left in Italy! It is sort of bittersweet, but to be honest with you, with an emphasis on sweet. Maybe I will go into more detail later, but I am truly really excited to go home. I am also trying to make sure I remain present and appreciative of the end of this time here, but going home is going to feel nice.

Alright, off to get ready for class and later on after that, my presentation! Things are busy these days but I will try to be a bit better about my updates! Emphasis on try...

Sunday, April 5, 2009

Finally!


Chiesa Santa Margherita (in Cortona)


Mmmm. Cheese.


Love the container for my quarto litro!


As in, finally I am updating my blog! I apologize to all you faithful readers out there for my blog sloth. And yes, I know I have faithful readers because a couple of you asked me when I would update! There are actually a bunch of blog-worthy things in my head, so I may end up jumping around out of chronological order. I apologize in advance if this ends up being a bit of a schizophrenic post...

The first thing is a short little anecdote from a week or two ago. Last week I was eating lunch at the "mensa" - cafeteria/dining hall, as I do on most Mondays, Tuesdays, and Wednesdays. I pretty much always do the "linea classica" where you get bread, pasta, secondo (meat), contorno (salad or vegetable), yogurt or fruit, and water. Considering that they are feeding us en masse, the food is reasonably good, or at least I think so - and the amount you get for the price is unbelievable (2,80 euros which usually will buy you a sandwich if that). Anyway, on this particular day the result of my getting food made me chuckle. Bread... check, pasta, check... oh look, for a side there is either some not great looking vegetable, or french fries. Guess I will take french fries. Secondo? Oh, I thought there was some kind of meat, but it is either a frittata with vegetables (not appetizing looking), or hot dogs... hot dogs? Just sitting on the plate? Without a bun? Yup. Without much other choice, that is what I did. A banana to top it off, and there was lunch. I sat down at the table and just chuckled to myself - usually I end up with a typical Italian meal, but as I looked at my tray, what I saw was a slightly modified version of macaroni, french fries, and hot dogs. Oh well. (I ended up eating almost everything, but only one of the hot dogs...)
Another anecdote is from yesterday, still school related. After lunch, I went to the library for the section of the university where I am studying now. I needed to make some copies of articles in books to prepare for a paper/presentation I have due in May, so I filled out the little request form, since rather than having open stacks, we have to request books for the employees to get from the back. There was a woman sitting at the desk, so I gave her the sheet of paper and said I wanted to get this book to look at, she took the paper, and said "at 2." And I was like... at 2? And she nodded.... um, okay? So then I sort of awkwardly sat around for 10 minutes to wait. I guess it was getting toward the end of the lunch break and all the other employees had to come back, but it was just a little odd since she seemed to be sitting there... working. At first blush, the fact that I had to wait until 2 seemed so arbitrary. Oh, Italy.

Small happy thing: Today, I had lunch with Eva at her apartment. It was wonderful and really nice to spend an afternoon being so social! Also, sad as it sounds, I am always a fan of yummy free meals...

Now, I suppose it's time to share about my daytrip last Saturday to Cortona - aka home to Under the Tuscan Sun. The villa where Frances Mayes lives is near Cortona, but outside it a bit, so it isn't like I saw the actual house or anything. I had been feeling the need for a daytrip, and I am glad I did it.

Getting to Cortona was a little bit complicated, because I had to take the train to Camucia, a town near Cortona. It is in a valley - the Val di Chiana - and Cortona is perched on a hill overlooking it. The night before I left, while talking to Federico about my trip, I looked up the bus schedules from the Camucia station to Cortona, and it seemed like the 10:55 am bus would work perfectly for my 10:33 train arrival. I read that I could get tickets at the tabaccheria right near the station.

Well, I arrived, and the tabaccheria was closed. Then I went to look at the schedule, and the 10:55 bus wasn't listed under Saturday - only the weekdays - though the schedule online had said it ran every day but Sunday. Starting to worry a bit, I asked a woman at the stop where I could get tickets, and she told me to walk down the street a little to another tabaccheria - that worked. The woman had also said there was a stop on the street, which I did see, but just felt more secure going back to the station. At this point, it was about 10:50. I had visions of either spending too much for a taxi, or waiting until 12-something for the next bus! Ugh. But then, as I walked back to the station, I saw a bus! Score! I made it back to the station stop just ahead of the bus, climbed aboard, validated my ticket, and settled in for the short ride to Cortona. In the immortal words of Borat - great success! (And great relief.)

The first thing I wanted to do in Cortona was climb a hill to see the Chiesa di Santa Margherita and the Fortezza Medicea, from which there was supposed to be an extra spectacular view. Well, I wanted to see the things at the top, I am not sure I'd say I wanted to climb the hill, ha. I was overdressed, as the Italians tend to dress on the warmer side, and I ended up getting a little sticky during my walk. Also, I had deemed a water bottle too heavy to bring with my guidebook, umbrella, and other items, and didn't bring one, which I regretted during the walk. I could hear my wise fiance's voice in my head saying "Kate! Drink water! Hydrate!" And so on and so forth... Anyway it was a cool walk - there were shrines with mosaics all along the stone wall on the walk up to the church, and I realized at a certain point that they were the stations of the cross! With that in mind I could totally imagine town processions up the hill to the church. Pretty cool.

I got up to the church, and there was a tour bus with a group getting out. My thought to myself was "hey, they got up the easy way!" Ha. Anyway, I took some photos of the (very attractive) church, then went inside to photograph that as well. It was really neat - the most notable thing about it to me was Santa Margherita's coffin sitting on the altar! Crazy. After the church, I walked up a bit more to the Fortezza, stood next to it, and decided that I was too cheap to pay to get in. After a few more view photos, I headed back on down to the main town of Cortona.

My first stop was Piazza della Repubblica, which was alive with activity on that Saturday morning. Just beyond the piazza, in Piazza Signorelli, there was a market! Excellent. Eventually I found the food section, which is always my favorite section to ogle. I even took some photos of the large portions of cheese and produce, but not the whole squids, fish, and lots of meat. I know I was really obvious as a tourist taking photos, but it was worth it to me.

Past the market, there was Cortona's duomo. It has stayed in its medieval form, and therefore has an extremely simple stone facade, nothing fancy or extra added on later, as is the case with our duomo here in Florence. True to form as an Italian church, the duomo was also very pretty inside, with tons of art. (It's kind of sad, I write about this in almost a blase way now... I have just been blessed to see so many Italian churches!) After admiring the view from the wall next to the Duomo, I decided it was lunch time.

I headed to a place recommended by my trusty guidebook, which rarely fails me. Sure enough, Trattoria la Grotta was filled with good eats. I wanted to try a glass of the local Valdichiana white wine, but they didn't have it. Instead the waiter/owner recommended I have a quarto (quarter liter) of the local white wine, which he assured me was good. It was. I mean, let's be honest here, I just turned 21 and even after a couple years of wine drinking it isn't like I have a discriminating palette... I also really liked that the quarter liter came in a decorated pitcher thing, rather than a clear glass carafe - see the photo on Picasa!

Right off I knew the restaurant had the classic Italian trattoria feel that I love and will miss - the owner/waiter good naturedly chatting with the locals dining there, recommending pastas and antipasti and secondos and contornos to them, bringing wine, and so on and so forth. The trattoria was also in an old wine cellar, and as such had amazingly rustic stone walls inside. I was certainly a fan.

I opted to start with the crostini misti as an appetizer. There were some spicy tomato sauce crostini, some with mushrooms, and some with "meat" which I suspect was crostini toscani (fegato, pate that is actually good in my opinion). I have had a lot of crostini here in Italy, but I've got to tell you this was some of the best I've had. I made sure to savor every bite.

And the deliciousness didn't stop there - for my main course I got spinach and ricotta gnocchi with truffle sauce on top. This was the dish specifically recommended by my guidebook. The gnocchi actually had the ricotta and spinach incorporated inside them, and they were light and fluffy and airy, yet also creamy. The truffle sauce on top added a nice richness with the distinctive taste of truffles. And of course I doused the whole thing in a healthy sprinkling of parmigiano cheese. Excellent.

Soon enough, I finished my delicious meal and headed out. My next, and it turned out last, stop, was the Archeological museum in Cortona. One part of it held exhibits based on many archeological discoveries around Cortona - many of them from Etruscan settlements. In the rest of the museum, there were many other artifacts, including some Egyptian pieces, some more medieval pieces, a room dedicated to the futurist artist Severini, and a couple really neat globes. One was a decorated globe featuring all the constellations, and the other was a world map from 1714. It was really interesting to look at the proportions and land masses and see what they had right and what was a little off. The funniest thing was the "Island of California" floating in the Pacific just off the North American continent!

Toward the end of my museum visit, I noticed it was raining. Good thing I had packed my umbrella (yes, umbrella #5). Had it not been raining, I might have taken another hour or so to explore the rest of Cortona, but I'd accomplished all the tourist things I wanted to do and I didn't really want to wander around in the rain, so I went ahead and took the bus back down to Camucia. I had some more nice timing there, in that I didn't have to rush but I didn't have to wait long to get on the next train to Florence. So there you have it - my daytrip to Cortona!

So, as most of you probably know, a major news event happened in Italy recently - the terrible earthquake that caused so much damage and loss of life in and around L'Aquila, Italy. A lot of friends and family were concerned about any effect it may have had on me - but it was very small indeed. I did actually feel my bed shaking a little while I was on the computer before I went to bed, and after I realized that no one was shaking my bed, I was like oh I wonder if that is an earthquake... and then went to sleep and forgot about it. I only heard about the severity of the damage the next day. Also, I must have felt one of the related shocks - not the 3:30 am quake that damaged L'Aquila so badly. I think my host family might have woken up upstairs and felt that one, but I was sleeping and didn't wake up. It was nice to know people were concerned about me but it really affected me very little. And my host family's family friends in the area are fine, which is nice to know. Apparently the death toll is over 200 now, so I am clearly thinking of everyone in the area. And it does strike me in a different way to have felt some of the tremors, to be familiar with this country and society, and to see it on the news as a domestic event rather than an international one.

I think that update should suffice for now... I will try to be a bit better in the coming weeks! Speaking of the coming weeks, here is how they look -

Tomorrow I have a class, and then I will be on vacation from school for Easter, until April 20! Classes start again on April 16, but oh hey, no class for me on Thursdays and Fridays means no class again until the 20th. But lest you think that I will be lazing around doing nothing academic, I hope to make good progress on my reading and paper writing during this break. Weirdly enough, my end of semester deadlines will start in mid-May, and with visitors coming in late April and early May, not to mention Allie next weekend (!) I need to really concentrate so I am not stressed about school when I am playing tourist and tour guide! Since I have a lot of work and faraway deadlines, I think it is a good idea to create some artificial deadlines for myself... we'll see how that goes.

I started my third class of the semester today, it's Art History but imagery in Christianity. I think it is a good mix of being related to my major (comparative studies Western Europe and the Middle East, with a focus on religion) and to my current location, Florence, aka the art capital of the world. It is also with my same professor that I had for History of the Church, which really helps since she knows me and I know her and I understand her and her teaching style (I also happen to like her teaching style). I just hope that the reading for the class doesn't get overwhelming on top of what I have for the other two.

So in my immediate future, one day of class, hopefully some good studying days, Allie's visit to Florence (during which she'll spend time with me and with another friend), a whole week or so that hopefully is productive, some more class, and THEN I am off to Naples, Pompeii, Sorrento, the Amalfi Coast, and Capri with my future parents-in-law! I am so excited, both to see them and to go to such a lovely destination! I think it will be a blast. After that portion of their trip, they'll spend a few days here in Florence. And that brings us to the end of April, wow.

Okay time to conclude for real. Til next time!

Sunday, March 29, 2009

La Vita Quotidiana e Il Mio Compleanno

(Daily Life and My Birthday)


Complimentary birthday prosecco at Yellow - Sarah, Neza, and me


Birthday tiramisu!

This entry is going to consist of a collection of various thoughts and anecdotes, capped off by an account of my birthday, which was yesterday!

Since I got back from London and Dave’s grandmother’s visit came and went, I have been able to relax a little more and catch up on life here in Florence. For the past few weeks, my typical class day has been like this:

I wake up, eat breakfast, and always leave for class a little later than I told myself I would. I never arrive before 9 am, but I have no motivation to – my professor never arrives before 9:15 at the earliest. I get to my Storia del Risorgimento class and see Eva, Neza (a Georgetown student, one of the group), and Diane, an American who goes to Smith, along with the Italians in our class (or whichever of them decided to show up that day). Eventually, Professor Ciuffoletti comes in. He starts out by identifying what aspect of the Risorgimento he will discuss that day. He starts out there, but inevitably veers off topic into modern day politics, older politics and history that are not exactly the Risorgimento, or food or other observations. This is most amusing when it is food. Here are some examples –

1) One day, Professor Ciuffoletti went off on a tangent regarding vegetable gardens. He was enchanted by the fact that Michelle Obama is apparently starting one at the White House. He went on about cucumbers and potatoes and artichokes. Ah yes, artichokes. He got into an exchange with one Italian student over how to cultivate them. He talked about the “Mamma” artichokes that are apparently huge. He then related how the night before he made a delicious dinner using “Mamma” artichokes. Toward the end of this spiel he demonstrated how gardening is hard work and you have to churn up the soil. He commented that this kind of work would change Michelle’s lovely toned muscles, and speculated about what the President might think. Also, this was the day that he answered his cell phone in the middle of class and had a 5-minute conversation.

2) Another day, he got on the topic of French food. Among his conclusions are the fact that French food is better for “haute” cuisine but for everything else Italian is decidedly better. Also, Italian wines are better except that France has champagne, which no one else can do the same way. He talked about an 8-course meal he once had in France that was full of tiny portions and snobby food.

3) Shortly after the observations on French cuisine, he talked about trips in America when he had young daughters. According to him, MacDonald’s was their savior. “Some good French fries, they can really be your salvation.” Getting off the highway, they never knew what would be good and had bad luck at some restaurants. Alas, MacDonald’s was their savior… The other Americans and I could not stop laughing – I found it hilarious and sad at the same time that from his point of view, MacDonald’s is the height of our cuisine… I also found myself reflecting on the quasi-universal appeal of MacDonald’s and its near omnipresence.

So, for the past couple weeks I have been a bit annoyed when Ciuffoletti goes off topic and I have to sit there and patiently listen, but at least it is funny when he talks about food. And only in Italy would there be a tangent of that length and depth about vegetable gardens. I think it really reflects something quirky and wonderful about their knowledge of fresh natural foods, even in this day and age. By that I mean that this knowledge is not restricted to farmers and cultivators, but is much more widespread in the population.

When Storia del Risorgimento ends around 11 (or whenever Ciuffoletti decides to end), Eva and I go to Storia della Chiesa with Professoressa Paiano. She stays on topic much better and tells us about the Catholic church and movements in it. Lecture is interspersed with reading and analyzing documents together – I really enjoy this aspect of the class. By the time this class ends at 1 pm, I am usually some combination of tired and hungry. Luckily that is when Eva and I go to the cafeteria! For the low price of 2,80 EUR, I get a pasta dish, secondo (meat), contorno (vegetable), fruit or yogurt, bread, and a drink. Yes, it is mass produced, but it is still Italian and still satisfying, especially for the price. This past week, I met Eva’s friends Katerina and Veronica, who are both German. One day I ate with all three of them and Eva reminded them they had to speak Italian since I don’t understand German. They do speak it among themselves in spurts though, especially to clarify things, as they are both less experienced in Italian than Eva.

After class, I usually go to the library and use the computer for an hour, then try to make myself read as long as I can stand it before heading home. I have a decent pile of reading that I could always be doing, but try my best to prioritize it and spread it out. In the coming weeks I will also be working on a paper about Garibaldi for Storia del Risorgimento, and a paper/presentation about prayer and war for Storia della Chiesa. At this point, all the lessons of Risorgimento class are over and my main task is the paper. I will hand it in about 10 days before my exam, in late May I think. I have a few more lessons left of Storia della Chiesa, and we need to schedule our presentations and paper due dates. I think for my third class, to take place in second module (second half of the semester), I may do an art history class with Professoressa Paiano. It is about religious imagery, I think it could count for my major, I know I like her as a professor, and I think it would be interesting. I do need to verify however that I don’t want to do another Contemporary History course that I had in mind.

Yesterday was my birthday. While I did find myself missing close loved ones at home, and thinking about how 21 is a less consequential birthday in Italy than in the US, I definitely enjoyed myself thanks to my own initiative and the help of friends here and at home. I had decided a while back that I might go shopping, and Eva upon hearing this offered to go with me. When we met up and headed toward the stores, she linked her arm through mine and told me she didn’t want me to spend my birthday alone. She really is a sweetheart. Right away, we went to the store Carpisa and I got a new bookbag/totebag for next year, and maybe this summer too. This year’s bag has served me well and was a free secondhand gift from Dave’s aunt, but it is showing signs of wear and an Italian bag seemed like a nice self-gift. Eva also got a good bag for traveling at Carpisa – she is going to Pompeii next weekend with some friends, including Veronica. After that we headed to a café/bar that I’d heard about for its doughnuts, and we had cappuccinos and pastries as we chatted. After that we wandered around looking at various stores, and ended up at Zara, where I had admired things before but never made any purchases. I wasn’t intending to make any purchases there either, but then I saw some really cute shoes that were comfortable, great for summer, and elegant. With Eva’s affirmation, I went ahead and bought them! After more walking around, Eva gave me her gift before we parted ways. It was a small recipe book filled with pasta dishes – such a great idea and especially impressive considering that she hasn’t known me for very long. I look forward to using it upon my return!

After we went our separate ways, I returned home and painted my nails, Skyped with people in the US, and got ready for my outing that night. I straightened my hair for the first time in a while, but of course it was raining outside as I made my way to the restaurant… oh well, my hair held up okay anyway. I met up with Eva at the Duomo and then we went to the restaurant. Before too long Margaret Leigh, Sarah, and Neza also came. Neza had a pink Rinascente bag which I found out was my gift from the three of them – very nice! No one else was as hungry as I, but we had a nice dinner anyway. I ordered prosecco right away, and as our waitress was opening the bottle, one of the guys in charge of the restaurant came over and asked if it was a special occasion. Neza said it was my birthday, and he said the prosecco was on the house! It was a lovely and unexpected gesture, and it saved us 15 euros! As antipasto, I had some crostini toscani, which are bread toasts topped with a “fegato” spread – in which the main ingredient is liver. I know it sounds gross to some, but don’t knock it until you’ve tried it. Some people don’t like it, but I really do! For my meal I got gnocchi rosé, which meant gnocchi in a tomato and cream sauce. It was really good, especially once I secured some cheese to sprinkle on top. To finish off the meal I got some tiramisu, of course. It is especially good at this restaurant, Yellow, which I have been to many times. In between main courses and dessert, I opened my present from the three Georgetown girls. It was some really nice lip gloss and a pretty scarf. I really appreciated their kindness and thoughtfulness.

After dinner, there was a bit of a strange situation in that the girls I ate with were all wanting to head home for one reason or another, but Bridie and some girls from the villa hadn’t been available earlier and wanted to come down and meet me at a bar. I told them where I was headed, and they said they’d get down as soon as they could, but there was still a gap. Luckily, Margaret Leigh ended up staying and chatting with me, which I really appreciated. When Bridie, Margaret, Laura, and Kate N. came, Margaret Leigh headed home, and I spent the rest of my evening chatting and drinking a bit with the others. It was really nice to socialize and have a few drinks, but not too many, and think to myself that finally the US would allow me to have them too! That will be a novelty upon my return this summer…

When I got home, there was a gift from the family sitting right there as I entered my room. I figured I should open it, so first I opened the card, which Lisa had decorated very nicely, complete with a drawing of me! The actual gift was Carlos Santana brand body wash and body scent. I didn’t realize that Carlos Santana had a brand of products like that, but it was a very nice gift! Today, Sunday, I slept in, and even extra because here in Italy we just “sprang forward” an hour today.

I feel really grateful for all the ways in which my birthday was special, and I will always be able to look back on celebrating my 21st in Italy. I received more presents and generosity than I would have imagined and feel lucky for that. And I look forward already to celebrating my 22nd next year at Georgetown, with many of my loved ones that are across the pond or in other parts of Europe and the world right now.

I think that will do it for this entry. The next week or two will just be working on schoolwork and starting my third class, until Allison gets here right before Easter. I will also have a pretty long break around the holiday, the closest thing I will get to Spring Break. (I can’t really complain about lack of breaks though – I only have class three days a week.) After Easter, Dave’s parents will be arriving in Italy and I am really excited for that!

Right after I publish this, I will try to get my most recent photos up – keep an eye out for pictures of some of my presents, my birthday celebration, and Lisa’s card to me!

Til next time!

Sunday, March 22, 2009

London, Visiting with my Grandma-in-Law, and Life in General


Alexandra near Buckingham Palace


Me with the Thames, Millennium Bridge, and St. Paul's Cathedral


Me and my pint of Strongbow cider


In front of Big Ben/the Houses of Parliament

So again, this is long overdue, but at least when I deliver I deliver a lot! I hope you will all excuse the delay and accept the reason that I have been very busy this past week – for reasons I will write about below.

I was blessed with an opportunity to go to London this past weekend! I timed the trip to coincide with the end of my friend (and one of my past and future roommates) Alexandra’s Spring Break stay to visit her friend Emi (who lived on my floor freshman year at school). I finished up my preparations Thursday morning, and set out to take the train to Pisa airport around 2 in the afternoon for a flight that left around 6 pm. Coincidentally, when I was at the airport I saw Megan, one of the 5 other Georgetown girls studying in my same program this semester. She was waiting to board her flight to Edinburgh to visit her friend Brigit (who also lived on my floor freshman year – Georgetown isn’t that large). After chatting with Megan until she had to board, I waited out the time until my own boarding call.

While we were waiting to actually board the plane, I had my first warning of the rowdy large group of Brits that was to take over – thus sort of tarnishing my quaint image that I wanted to ascribe to them all as a populace. One girl either my age or slightly younger was just generally carrying on with friends, but the most annoying thing was that she was periodically shouting “SHIT. SHIT. SHIT.” I really have no idea why. All I know was that it was unnerving, and at least a large portion of them seriously seemed drunk. Then as we walked across the tarmac, two of these girls including the SHIT one ran in order to pass me, a father and a daughter who were with their other family members. The father gave them a “what the hell?” look but they seemed undeterred. My new seating strategy became to distance myself from those two and their cohorts and I did a pretty good job. They leaped toward the middle of the plane and I remained toward the back (passengers were boarding from both ends). However, during the entire flight this group which seemed to be pretty large made the plane much louder than what one would normally expect, and I’m glad I didn’t need to sleep on the flight. My iPod also helped me drift off into my own world a little.

Upon arrival, I realized that the UK is more like the US in terms of security – this was the first of my travels in which I had my passport checked quite often, and I had to fill out an arrival card since I am not a citizen of the EU. Despite the extra task, the non-EU line at customs was much shorter than the EU line, and I reached the customs officer very quickly. She asked me all sorts of questions about my stay and its reasons and the friends I was seeing, which was slightly nervewracking but also just her job. After that I proceeded to an ATM to get my first pounds, and bought a Terravision shuttle ticket for downtown London. (Sidenote: I only had a black duffel carryon bag with me, which was nice to travel with. Aside from convenience, there was no way I was going to check baggage on Ryanair again after my Spain experience.)

After the shuttle departed, my first impressions of the greater London area were along the lines of “oh wow, they really do drive on the left side here. This is odd and sort of cool! Oh boy, we are going to the left in this rotary, not the right, how backwards. I could never drive here.” That was basically my stream of consciousness. Other than that, nothing was novel, especially since it was dark and we were on highways.

A little less than an hour later, the bus had arrived at the Liverpool Street stop, where I (eventually) found the Tube, London’s metro, got a ticket, and hopped on. I found the Tube blissfully user friendly (especially because of my memories of negotiating Madrid’s metro) and was impressed with the fact that it has cushioned seats! Very nice.

I was headed to the Bond Street stop, which was near Alexandra’s hotel. I benefited hugely from generosity on this trip – from Alexandra, her grandfather, and Emi as well. In the first instance, Alexandra had me stay with her at her hotel, which was in turn furnished by her grandfather as a birthday gift to her. He’d also been thinking of coming along at one time, but decided against it. In any case, suffice it to say this was a very very nice hotel, quite the opposite of where I’ve been staying this year and probably nicer than anywhere else I will ever stay in my adult life. I savored it and tried my best to enjoy it while remaining ever appreciative of generosity. I found the hotel pretty easily, and asked the front desk to call up to Alexandra’s room. She and Emi were there, and said they’d meet me coming off the elevator. A very nice porter/elevator man showed me to the elevator and took my bag. And get this – the elevator had a COUCH in it! Or at least something resembling one… crazy. So of course, I sat down. Why not? Anyway, we reached the top and Alex and Emi were there to meet me. It was so nice to see them, especially Alex, after such a long time apart. The elevator man took my bag all the way to the room for me, because that’s what they do in places like that. By that point I had a bit of traveling fatigue, so it was really nice to see a large comfy bed and be in a warm lovely place with Alexandra and Emi. We talked a bit, and when she found out I hadn’t had real dinner Alex said it would be more than fine to get room service, and she was going to get tea anyway. (Sadly, Alex had a cold for most of her trip.) Since some hot food did sound really good, I looked at the menu and opted for a ham and cheese sandwich, made with gruyere cheese. High end comfort food, yum. Alex ordered that and her tea, and before we knew it, the food was upstairs. It was very satisfying and yummy.

After a little while, Emi headed back to her dorm (she is spending the year at the London School of Economics) and Alex and I settled into bed after making a rough plan for the next day. In the morning, early enough but not too early, we got up, took our showers, and headed down to breakfast, located in the hotel’s beautiful lobby area. As you might expect from again, a place like that, breakfast was gourmet and delicious. The orange juice was amazing, the coffee was lovely, and my eggs benedict and toast were also delicious. I hadn’t had eggs benedict in a while, so that was fun. (For one thing it contains more fat and certain ingredients that the Italians would never consider consuming in the morning.) Alex and I also relished the chance to chat at a relaxed pace over breakfast. And she very much enjoyed her porridge with blueberries. And yes, it was actually called porridge. England is so cool.

After breakfast, Alex and I headed off on foot toward Buckingham Palace for the changing of the guard. The whole time I was just soaking in and only half believing the fact that I was in London! It has such a strong place in pop culture, and I feel like Americans and Brits have lots of similar cultural references, that it was sort of fulfilling and exciting to be there in a way that other cities just hadn’t been. We got to Buckingham Palace, where the crowds were already amassing, and found a spot. We stood around a while and took photos while we waited for it to start. In truth, less happened out in the oval area (which we were facing) than I thought, but it was still fun – we got to see guys in different uniforms marching by, and horses, and the band played a bunch of music inside the gates. Toward the end I did make my way toward the gates and got to see a bit of what was going on there as well. Either way, I’d seen Buckingham Palace and witnessed the changing of the guard. It was a fun first thing to really do in London.

After the ceremony, Alexandra and I took the Tube to Southwark, south of the Thames and near Shakespeare’s Globe – our intended next attraction. Despite previous trips to London, Alexandra had never been there, and for me it was a must – every summer for 7 years I went to the Oregon Shakespeare Festival with my grandparents, and after missing the past 2 years I am returning this year! In Ashland, where the festival takes place, there is an Elizabethan style outdoor theater, but this was a chance to see an even more authentic tribute to Shakespeare in his home country and city. Upon entering the Globe, we realized there was a performance for schoolchildren going on, so the regularly scheduled tours of the actual theater weren’t running. We found out that there would be another tour at 4:30, and since you had to pay for the exhibition when you entered the tour, we decided to come back later on.

After leaving the Globe, we looked around for a place to eat. We saw a pub called Founders Arms that had a great view of the river. We liked the look of the place and headed on in. After managing to find a couple seats, we perused the menu and went to the counter to order. When I saw that they had Strongbow cider, I knew I had to get it, as Dave had required it of me when he heard about my trip. He trained for about a month with Sandhurst (the British equivalent of West Point) last summer and had many opportunities to enjoy Strongbow back then. So that was decided. With my Strongbow, I got a tuna sandwich with chunky avocado salsa, which turned out to be more appetizing on the menu than in person, only because in the salsa there were lots of pieces of cucumber, which I don’t really care for. It was okay to eat once I acted like a kid and picked out the cucumber, but I may still have ordered something else if I had known. Alexandra got shepherd’s pie and it was delicious! I know because I got to taste!

After lunch, we will had some time before 4:30, so we crossed the Millennium Bridge (which was in a fave movie of mine, Love Actually!) to get to the north bank and St. Paul’s Cathedral. We did go inside, but Alex had seen it already and it wasn’t worth spending 8 or so pounds to really see the whole thing to me, so I admired as much as I could for free and then we headed out. We took a nice stroll back across the river to the Globe, and by that point it was 3:30 so we decided to try our luck. A bit of confusion ensued, as the man at the desk wasn’t positive that the 4:30 tour would go on – he said he’d need clearance as the show could run over. We were a bit frustrated by the lack of certain and confusion, but we ascertained that our best chance to see the theater was to come back at 4 to see. With a little bit more time to kill, we went to a café in the Globe complex and got some Earl Grey tea. The café had a nice ambience, and it was fun to have real English tea (not to mention warming!). Right around 4 we headed back, and happily, the man at the desk was selling tickets to our desired tour. Until it started, we took a spin through the exhibition, though I really wished I could have had more time to go through it. Regardless, it was more important and exciting to get on the tour, so by 4:30 we were down there ready to go.

The tour was great – we had a really great guide who was interesting and illuminating and funny. She told us about the process of reconstructing the Globe (done as much as possible to the specifications and using the same methods as were used for the original, which burnt down and had one successor dismantled). She also told us about the shows they do now and the production of Romeo and Juliet that was put on that day for the schoolchildren. She explained that the show was staged to connect to modern gang life among young Londoners – a problem in which many of the children may have been involved. It sounded like the show was a success, and it was fun to hear about how they were making Shakespeare accessible. So yes, the tour was a great experience, especially with my OSF background. Alexandra and I were both really glad it worked out to go.

After the Globe, it was time for us to go to Covent Garden, a really cool neighborhood in London where we planned to get dinner before we saw the famous play “The Mousetrap” by Agatha Christie. Alexandra wanted to see it, so Emi and I were happy to go along, and Emi had bought our tickets earlier that day so we could meet her later on (Emi wasn’t with us for the entire day because she had class). Sadly, Emi was running late so Alexandra and I ended up doing dinner on our own. Even more sadly, things got rushed, and though we were able to enjoy some delicious soup, our entrees arrived only in time for us to take a couple bites. We felt bad especially since our waiter was so nice, calling us “love” all the time and just generally being friendly. But alas, we had to go, and that was disappointing but necessary so we could see the show! Then, getting to the theater was stressful, as Alex had to talk to Emi on the phone to figure out, we asked a bunch of people who weren’t that helpful, and finally I was able to use my guidebook map to get us there. So we got there on time and successfully, but then Emi wasn’t there, and she had all our tickets – so it seemed as if our rush might go to waste. But just in the nick of time, Emi arrived, and we were able to take our seats and enjoy the show! It certainly enriched my experience, as I like seeing plays in general, and this one is so famous. In the tradition of the show (which as you might have guessed is a mystery) they asked us at the end not to reveal the surprise ending – which I won’t, but as I read on Wikipedia, after 50-something years the ending is somewhat common knowledge. If you really really wanted to know, you could look it up. But I won’t tell you!

After the show, Alex, Emi and I walked around a bit and eventually ended up near Trafalgar Square. We went on one of the Golden Jubilee Bridges, which was really pretty in its own right, and had a great night view of the river, the London Eye, and the Houses of Parliament in Westminster. We took some pictures and just generally enjoyed the evening. After a busride back to the hotel, we decided to go for drinks at the lounge downstairs. After much consultation of the extensive menu, I decided to try a drink called the ginger sling. It was made with vodka, lime juice, fresh ginger, and ginger ale. It sounded intriguing, especially since I like both lime and ginger. And indeed, it was really good. It was nice to sip while chatting with Emi and Alex about all sorts of things.

Sidenote: Though I go out rather infrequently here, when I do, I try to educate myself more about mixed drinks and cocktails. It is a subject that interests me, but it’s very new in my life, especially since I am still underage in the US! (Though that changes soon…) Step by step though I suppose…

After we sat around a while, Emi headed back to her dorm and Alex and I headed upstairs for one last night of wonderful sleep before Alex had to leave the next morning, to go back to the US. We met Emi downstairs so we could all have breakfast together – once again in the wonderful ambience and delicious food. I got an omelet which was quite good, though I think when I said I wanted everything except mushrooms, that somehow got misconstrued to mean that I DID want mushrooms… luckily I don’t mind them that much though, and I wasn’t going to really worry about it. I still got to have wonderful orange juice, coffee, and buttered wheat toast! Buttered toast is one of my favorite simple pleasures in life…

But I digress! After lunch, Alex checked out of the hotel and was off to the airport. It was a short amount of time we spent together, but I was grateful to have it, especially in a fabulous place like London! Since Alex checking out meant I needed somewhere to spend my last night, Emi was generous enough to have me sleep in her dorm room at LSE, so after parting ways with Alex we headed there. I checked in at the front office, saw the dorm, and dropped my stuff off in Emi’s room. Then we headed off to Westminster together, to see the Houses of Parliament and Westminster Abbey. In another situation, I might have wanted to try to get into Westminster Abbey, but there were many things I wanted to do that day, and there was a line, and one had to pay, so I opted against it. It was still nice to see it from the outside! After that visit, Emi graciously agreed that she could have lunch with me too, and we eventually found a nice looking pub. I do love those pubs! They’ve got them everywhere in London, how fun. Anyway, *this* pub was where I finally had fish and chips, fulfilling one of my goals for the weekend. Was it the best food I have ever had? No. But it was good and warm and tasty and I was experiencing part of London’s famous culinary culture – and therefore, it was satisfying. I had yet another kind of cider too, Bulmer’s this time. It was also really nice to talk to Emi and hear about London and her life in general.

After lunch, we parted ways, as I was going to hit up a couple museums and I knew that Emi was tired and might have things to do. It can be nice to go through a museum at one’s pace anyway, and I really didn’t want to impose on Emi. Mostly, I was grateful that I got to eat with her instead of by myself. My first stop after lunch was the National Gallery, full of wonderful works of art. As an added bonus, free admission! There was so much to see there, so I had to pick some priorities, but I made a point of seeing some of the famous French artists that I studied senior year of high school (including Cezanne, Degas, Monet, Van Gogh, and others). Van Gogh’s famous “Sunflowers” was there, and I spent a good few minutes just studying it. I think I really enjoy seeing impressionist works in person because you can see with great detail and clarity the strokes and colors they use to create such a stunning image. I have found with Van Gogh above all that you can just see his hand at work, as he really globs the paint onto the canvas. I find it really interesting. After I’d seen the French/contemporary art, I saw a few highlights such as Rembrandt and Vermeer in the 18th century section, then headed even more backward in time to the section dominated by Italian artists. I made a point of seeing works by Raphael, Botticelli, and Leonardo da Vinci, and recognized other artists I had encountered here in Florence.

Once I felt like I had spent about the right amount of time in the gallery, it was time to depart for another world class museum, the British Museum, which as it turns out houses an immense amount of archeological and cultural heritage from around the world. Some of the most famous artifacts there include the Rosetta Stone and the “Elgin Marbles” – statues from the Parthenon that were controversially taken back to England. I made sure to see those, along with other classical/antique artifacts that reminded me of the time I spent in Turkey last June (on a classics themed trip and class). Then I made my way up to other galleries, among them mummies and ancient Egyptian artifacts, Etruscan Italy, and much more. In particular at the British Museum, I felt there was so much to see and no way to really appreciate it all. I was sort of sad to pick and choose and skim through many sections, but that’s what I had to do. Toward the end of my visit, I went to a Japanese exhibit and to the Islamic exhibit, which were interesting ways to end my time in the museum. Oh, and the British Museum also had free admission! How wonderful!

By the time I finished up there, it was getting late in the afternoon, and I knew there was no practical way to visit the Tower of London, which Alexandra had so enthusiastically recommended to me. It was unfortunate, but a sad byproduct of only having two full days to spend in London. I did however take the Tube in order to get to a part of the city where I could really see the Tower Bridge, and used the opportunity to take some photos and enjoy the late afternoon sun. This is as good a place as any to share some happy good fortune I had – I did not have to use my umbrella ONCE in London – a place so renowned for rainy weather. This was especially appreciated considering the umbrella saga I had with Marissa in Zurich… also, my boots are quite far from waterproof at this point, and I find touring cities to me much more pleasant when my feet are dry.

After my short trip to see the Tower Bridge, I took the Tube back to Covent Garden to meet up with Emi and some LSE friends of hers for dinner. Later on, they were going to a charity fashion show that one of them helped organize, and at first I thought I might not go, but during dinner I decided, why not, and decided to go for it. First I need to back up and talk about dinner though!

When I met up with Emi, she was with three of her friends – Elizabeth, who is Scottish, Kayley, who is Chinese, and Winston, who is from China but goes to Georgetown (we actually realized we’d had IR discussion together last year). We ended up going to a place called “Pizza Express” for dinner, since Elizabeth had some coupons for it, or “vouchers” as they call coupons in England. It was sort of strange going to Pizza Express in the same way that I imagine it will be strange to go to Olive Garden or other “Italian” restaurants in the United States. It had Italian vocabulary and Italian-inspired offerings, but it was just that, inspired rather than authentic. My “Quattro formaggi” (four cheeses) pizza was delicious, but it was just a strange feeling to see a reappropriation of a cuisine I am so familiar with and keep thinking “wow this is so not authentic.” But inauthentic in no way means bad! Also it was nice to get to know Emi’s friends, and I was really grateful to be included in their group for the night.

After dinner we went to the fashion show. It was put on by the Chinese Student Association at LSE, along with other groups, and its purpose was to benefit and bring awareness to the continuing crisis in the Sichuan province of China, following their devastating earthquakes last year. The profits of the show went directly to UNICEF in order to help victims of the quakes, and children in particular. It was fun to go to a fashion show, and to witness what the students had put together in order to benefit a good cause. Plus, I sort of felt like I was in a real life version of Project Runway.

After the show, Elizabeth, Emi and I went back to the dorm, and after a quick shower I went directly to sleep. I had to get up really early the next morning, because despite a somewhat reasonable time of 8:25 for my departure, getting to the shuttle coach bus, taking the coach, and allowing enough time for check in meant a wake-up time of 3:30 am. So it is, when traveling sometimes. So I got as much sleep as I could, then got up, shoved on some clothes and my glasses, and headed off. Poor Emi insisted on waking up too to accompany me to the city bus which would take me to the coach bus, and I felt really bad but was also so grateful that she was willing to venture out at such an hour. We walked across the bridge and waited for the bus, which came after too long. I said good-bye to Emi and tried to impress upon her how grateful I was for her hospitality and generosity. After a short ride, I got to Liverpool Street Station and the Terravision bus stop. I got there quite early, and I could tell a long version of waiting, but basically, I got impatient, it was cold, and it wasn’t very enjoyable. Also, the shuttle was slightly late, so being there so early was even overkill. Luckily there were plenty of other travelers awaiting the shuttle, so I didn’t feel unsafe. Just groggy and cold.

But alas, the bus did arrive, and during the ride to the airport the sun rose. Things went smoothly at the airport. There Ryanair had a nifty system where I could just use a little kiosk to check in, and that was really fast and easy. Since I didn’t have to check my bag, I could skip that line and proceed directly to security. Once I was through there, I still had plenty of time. The signage said that as long as your gate wasn’t listed, they wanted you to remain in the lounge area rather than heading to the gate, so I took advantage of that time to have a cappuccino and chocolate muffin for breakfast, then spend some of my remaining pounds on a bit of internet time. Not long after that, I headed to the gate and eventually boarded the plane.

Returning to Italy was pretty uneventful. After I landed in Pisa I took the train right back to Florence. I will admit that I wasn’t sad to feel the warmer Italian sun on me as we arrived… mmm. I got back to the house around 2 pm in the afternoon, and downloaded pictures and talked to David online for a while. Then, around 5, it was time to get ready to head to a hotel downtown, because Dave’s grandma and her friend Carolyn had just arrived in Florence!

That’s right – I had a quick turnaround from my London trip to spending time with Dave’s grandma and Carolyn. Since she knew about my trip, Grandma BB (as I will refer to her hereafter) really wanted to come visit, or rather “stow away in my suitcase” as she’d told me. Dave told her that she really should go for it if she wanted to, so after she verified my schedule, she booked her trip! Happily, her friend Carolyn (with whom she’d traveled before) could come with her. Before they met up with me here in Florence, they spent a few days in Rome, during which Grandma BB got to visit the Roman Forum – which was a lifelong dream of hers, as she studied Classical Archeology at Wellesley during her college days. That is the story of how I was lucky enough to have my grandma-in-law want to come visit me in Florence! (And yes, technically it’s future grandma-in-law, but that is just legalities…)

Sunday night, I greeted Grandma BB and met Carolyn at their hotel, and we started by sitting and chatting for a while, after, of course, I showed off my engagement ring and we all complimented David’s taste. ;-) Afterward, we went to a nice little trattoria for dinner by the hotel, and enjoyed some good food along with more good conversation.

The next morning, I had two classes, and met up with Grandma BB and Carolyn after I got out around 1 pm. In the morning they’d gone to the church of San Marco, and that got rave reviews from them. We had another very good meal together, lunch this time, and then we went to the church San Miniato al Monte, the one I always talk about which was the first place I ever went in Florence, when Lucia took me there the morning I arrived. We were able to enjoy the beautiful church and the stunning view of Florence. I never get tired of going to San Miniato al Monte, especially when it is a beautiful sunny day. We stayed there long enough to see and hear the vespers service put on by the monks at the church – using mostly Gregorian chant! It was one of those things that I’ve been intending to do for a while, and I finally did it. Grandma BB and Carolyn liked it too. We went back to the hotel after that, and I headed home for dinner while Grandma BB and Carolyn rested and did something simpler and smaller. The next day after class, I met them at the exit of the Uffizi, where they’d spent their morning. As Grandma BB freely admits, she could spend all day in there, so she had a grand old time appreciating the art. I took them to Trattoria Anita, a place I first went to with Dave where one can get a primo, secondo, and contorno (side dish) for only 7 euros – a great deal! The food was simple but delicious, as it tends to be here. After lunch we were off to Santa Croce, one of Florence’s most famous churches, to take in the art there as well. Carolyn also did some shopping for family near the piazza in front of the church, while Grandma BB and I enjoyed the weather and people watched. After Santa Croce we headed back to the hotel to relax until dinner. Grandma BB told me even before her arrival that she wanted to take my host family out to dinner in order to meet them, so I found the evening that worked best and it was that day, Tuesday.

I’d made reservations at Perseus, a restaurant near where I live that has the best bistecca alla fiorentina I’ve had, and many other delicious foods. We all met there right around 8, and had a lovely meal – though especially the process of ordering was confusing as I was speaking both languages at once and translating the menu for Grandma BB and Carolyn, and of course there are so many choices of courses and so on. Anyway, we eventually got the food ordered and enjoyed good conversation, though of course with me translating. Switching back and forth is one of the hardest things to do for me, linguistically, and a couple times I said a whole phrase to Grandma BB in Italian before realizing it was the wrong language… whoops. It was really nice that she could meet my host family and that my host family could meet her. And while I hoped it wasn’t too much trouble on a weeknight, I figured it was nice for Cristina not to have to worry about dinner for once. The family really seemed to enjoy themselves too, so that was nice (though Lisa was a bit bored at the beginning especially).

The next day, due to the threat of a custodians’ strike, I only had my first class of the day rather than both. There was uncertainty over whether the building would be open, so my Storia della Chiesa professor decided not to hold class, as she has a long commute. (I like how I write this with such normality now… but this is the type of thing I spent last semester getting used to.) Therefore, I got out of class at 11 and met Grandma BB and Carolyn a bit early. I talked to them while they packed for their departure the next day, and then we went to the area by Palazzo Pitti to search out lunch, as our afternoon plan was to go to the Giardino di Boboli – the beautiful gardens surrounding the palace. Sadly, the place I wanted to eat lunch, another place I’ve visited in the past, was inexplicably closed, so we found an alternate that was also very good. We had the typical long lunch, then made our way to the palace, bought our tickets, and spent the rest of the afternoon in the gardens. For limits of time we only saw a small part of them, so I’ll have to go back sometime to see even more. It was nice to see them for the first time though! Afterward we headed back to the hotel and after a bit more conversation I bid farewell to Grandma BB and Carolyn, as they were off to Rome for their return flight the next day. It was so nice that a part of my “in-law” clan came to visit me (and Grandma BB will be followed by Dave’s parents in April). Many people are taken aback when they hear that HIS family is visiting in addition to my own, but I have been able to get to know them as Dave and I have been together since we were both 16. Also, I think deep down inside a lot of people want to go to Italy, and why pass up the chance this year, when a friendly free guide who speaks the language is living here? I think this is mainly what has led to my four sets of visitors in four months, starting with my parents in February and leading to my grandparents in May. It’s always nice, to see family, share Italy, and in the case of adult visitors, be treated to some nice meals. Today (Sunday) is Grandma BB’s birthday, and Dave and his family are over at her house hopefully hearing all about her trip!

As for life in general, let’s see. I am starting to see my return to the US as it dawns on my mental horizon. I think this became especially true once my mom bought my new return ticket and we set the date in stone – June 17. That gives me less than three months from today. To be totally honest, I am quite eager for it. I do remind myself constantly that I have to enjoy what’s left of this experience, but it’s been a long time away and it will be nice to return to my home country, family, and friends. Also, another part of the honest truth is that I have been picking up lots of ideas and thoughts about the wedding I’m planning (oh yeah, my own!) and I am anxious to be back so I can actually get things done. Thank goodness Dave has been great and booked our ceremony and gotten in touch with our likely reception venue, out of necessity and convenience, but at the end of the day, I enjoy this type of thing more than he does. I am going to be using the summer to hopefully get a lot more done and organized, and I am also excited to share the process with my family and friends, and Dave whenever he isn’t training. So yes, that is part of my being antsy!

However, in the short term there is also a lot to look forward to. My 21st birthday is next weekend, which will be odd in that in the here and now, nothing changes. But being American, it still feels like a rite of passage, unique among birthdays… and it will make things different when I return. However, I suppose I can’t complain that I have had all these extra months to enjoy Chianti and other beverages of the alcoholic variety when eating out, even as a 20-year-old. I am hoping to eat dinner out with friends who are here in Florence to celebrate – hopefully at least a decent number of them can come. At any rate, I am looking forward to the chance to get a little dolled up and go out to celebrate, though at times it feels bittersweet since my very closest friends and family are on the other side of the pond, or in other countries.

Toward Easter, my friend Allison is coming from Paris (her blog is linked here!) to spend a little time in Italy, Florence included. Allison and I have a lot of the same friends (and past roommates) at Georgetown, and it will be really nice to see her. I know she has another friend in Florence as well, but we have already tentatively discussed possibly going to mass together on Easter.

And in late April, David’s parents are coming to Italy on their trip! I will be doing part of it with them, notably Naples and the Amalfi Coast, and of course their time in Florence. I am really excited because if it weren’t for them, I probably wouldn’t be getting down to that part of Italy, and I have definitely wanted to! I’m also just so happy that I’ll get to see them in general, because like I said, I’ve been hanging around Dave’s family for many years now, and they are definitely like additional family for me – I am lucky when it comes to in-laws!

Oh yeah, there is also school. It’s been going along fine, except that already second module is going to start, not this week but the next I believe, and I haven’t nailed down for sure my third class, the one I will take second module. I did e-mail the professor of the one I’d like to take, so hopefully I will hear back soon that it’s alright with him – I felt it better to check because professors are picky about foreigners or people outside a certain track of study doing their classes. Otherwise, I like my other classes and it’s nice that I know people in them. Eva and I have had a lot of lunches together and have both classes together, and she is a valued new friend. Also, in Storia del Risorgimento there is Neza, one of the Georgetown girls, and Diane, an American from Smith College who happens to be in the class. We joked the other day that there is a foreigners’ table, as many of the Italians were seated on the other side of the room that day… but I don’t think there is truly segregation going on. Either way, it puts me more at ease to have a built in group of “outsiders”. I have a lot of reading for class, but it is on a pretty flexible time schedule as most of it is meant to provide background knowledge – knowledge that many of the students would have already had. I should also be meeting with at least one of my tutors for this semester soon as well – the one Neza and I will share for the Risorgimento class. I am also going to be writing a paper on Giuseppe Garibaldi for the class, and doing some sort of presentation/paper for Storia della Chiesa. So there is enough school to keep me busy – and I hope I can stay on top of it and not let it overwhelm me. Regardless, the pace of schoolwork is nothing like Georgetown, and I only have class three days a week…

Speaking of Georgetown, I am unnaturally excited for pre-registration, which starts online next week. If you’ve read my blog all year, you know that waiting until just before the semester starts to put a schedule together has been an adjustment for me, along with the general confusion about class schedules and administration here. So, pre-registration is exciting in that I can see course offerings and put a schedule together MONTHS in advance – Georgetown seems so incredibly organized. In addition, it’s a signal that I really am going back, and I love Georgetown, so that is a cheery thought. And lastly, I will be handpicking classes to finish my major and certificate – therefore classes that fit my academic passions and are the more familiar, engaging, classes that I was used to my first two years of college (also, they will be taught in English).

Well, that is my update on London, visiting with Grandma BB, and a hodge podge of the rest of life. I am so sorry that this took me so long, it was a combination of being very busy and very lazy. But I hope the length and detail makes up for it a bit! To see more photos, please see my Picasa page – there are a ton from London!