Sunday, March 29, 2009

La Vita Quotidiana e Il Mio Compleanno

(Daily Life and My Birthday)


Complimentary birthday prosecco at Yellow - Sarah, Neza, and me


Birthday tiramisu!

This entry is going to consist of a collection of various thoughts and anecdotes, capped off by an account of my birthday, which was yesterday!

Since I got back from London and Dave’s grandmother’s visit came and went, I have been able to relax a little more and catch up on life here in Florence. For the past few weeks, my typical class day has been like this:

I wake up, eat breakfast, and always leave for class a little later than I told myself I would. I never arrive before 9 am, but I have no motivation to – my professor never arrives before 9:15 at the earliest. I get to my Storia del Risorgimento class and see Eva, Neza (a Georgetown student, one of the group), and Diane, an American who goes to Smith, along with the Italians in our class (or whichever of them decided to show up that day). Eventually, Professor Ciuffoletti comes in. He starts out by identifying what aspect of the Risorgimento he will discuss that day. He starts out there, but inevitably veers off topic into modern day politics, older politics and history that are not exactly the Risorgimento, or food or other observations. This is most amusing when it is food. Here are some examples –

1) One day, Professor Ciuffoletti went off on a tangent regarding vegetable gardens. He was enchanted by the fact that Michelle Obama is apparently starting one at the White House. He went on about cucumbers and potatoes and artichokes. Ah yes, artichokes. He got into an exchange with one Italian student over how to cultivate them. He talked about the “Mamma” artichokes that are apparently huge. He then related how the night before he made a delicious dinner using “Mamma” artichokes. Toward the end of this spiel he demonstrated how gardening is hard work and you have to churn up the soil. He commented that this kind of work would change Michelle’s lovely toned muscles, and speculated about what the President might think. Also, this was the day that he answered his cell phone in the middle of class and had a 5-minute conversation.

2) Another day, he got on the topic of French food. Among his conclusions are the fact that French food is better for “haute” cuisine but for everything else Italian is decidedly better. Also, Italian wines are better except that France has champagne, which no one else can do the same way. He talked about an 8-course meal he once had in France that was full of tiny portions and snobby food.

3) Shortly after the observations on French cuisine, he talked about trips in America when he had young daughters. According to him, MacDonald’s was their savior. “Some good French fries, they can really be your salvation.” Getting off the highway, they never knew what would be good and had bad luck at some restaurants. Alas, MacDonald’s was their savior… The other Americans and I could not stop laughing – I found it hilarious and sad at the same time that from his point of view, MacDonald’s is the height of our cuisine… I also found myself reflecting on the quasi-universal appeal of MacDonald’s and its near omnipresence.

So, for the past couple weeks I have been a bit annoyed when Ciuffoletti goes off topic and I have to sit there and patiently listen, but at least it is funny when he talks about food. And only in Italy would there be a tangent of that length and depth about vegetable gardens. I think it really reflects something quirky and wonderful about their knowledge of fresh natural foods, even in this day and age. By that I mean that this knowledge is not restricted to farmers and cultivators, but is much more widespread in the population.

When Storia del Risorgimento ends around 11 (or whenever Ciuffoletti decides to end), Eva and I go to Storia della Chiesa with Professoressa Paiano. She stays on topic much better and tells us about the Catholic church and movements in it. Lecture is interspersed with reading and analyzing documents together – I really enjoy this aspect of the class. By the time this class ends at 1 pm, I am usually some combination of tired and hungry. Luckily that is when Eva and I go to the cafeteria! For the low price of 2,80 EUR, I get a pasta dish, secondo (meat), contorno (vegetable), fruit or yogurt, bread, and a drink. Yes, it is mass produced, but it is still Italian and still satisfying, especially for the price. This past week, I met Eva’s friends Katerina and Veronica, who are both German. One day I ate with all three of them and Eva reminded them they had to speak Italian since I don’t understand German. They do speak it among themselves in spurts though, especially to clarify things, as they are both less experienced in Italian than Eva.

After class, I usually go to the library and use the computer for an hour, then try to make myself read as long as I can stand it before heading home. I have a decent pile of reading that I could always be doing, but try my best to prioritize it and spread it out. In the coming weeks I will also be working on a paper about Garibaldi for Storia del Risorgimento, and a paper/presentation about prayer and war for Storia della Chiesa. At this point, all the lessons of Risorgimento class are over and my main task is the paper. I will hand it in about 10 days before my exam, in late May I think. I have a few more lessons left of Storia della Chiesa, and we need to schedule our presentations and paper due dates. I think for my third class, to take place in second module (second half of the semester), I may do an art history class with Professoressa Paiano. It is about religious imagery, I think it could count for my major, I know I like her as a professor, and I think it would be interesting. I do need to verify however that I don’t want to do another Contemporary History course that I had in mind.

Yesterday was my birthday. While I did find myself missing close loved ones at home, and thinking about how 21 is a less consequential birthday in Italy than in the US, I definitely enjoyed myself thanks to my own initiative and the help of friends here and at home. I had decided a while back that I might go shopping, and Eva upon hearing this offered to go with me. When we met up and headed toward the stores, she linked her arm through mine and told me she didn’t want me to spend my birthday alone. She really is a sweetheart. Right away, we went to the store Carpisa and I got a new bookbag/totebag for next year, and maybe this summer too. This year’s bag has served me well and was a free secondhand gift from Dave’s aunt, but it is showing signs of wear and an Italian bag seemed like a nice self-gift. Eva also got a good bag for traveling at Carpisa – she is going to Pompeii next weekend with some friends, including Veronica. After that we headed to a café/bar that I’d heard about for its doughnuts, and we had cappuccinos and pastries as we chatted. After that we wandered around looking at various stores, and ended up at Zara, where I had admired things before but never made any purchases. I wasn’t intending to make any purchases there either, but then I saw some really cute shoes that were comfortable, great for summer, and elegant. With Eva’s affirmation, I went ahead and bought them! After more walking around, Eva gave me her gift before we parted ways. It was a small recipe book filled with pasta dishes – such a great idea and especially impressive considering that she hasn’t known me for very long. I look forward to using it upon my return!

After we went our separate ways, I returned home and painted my nails, Skyped with people in the US, and got ready for my outing that night. I straightened my hair for the first time in a while, but of course it was raining outside as I made my way to the restaurant… oh well, my hair held up okay anyway. I met up with Eva at the Duomo and then we went to the restaurant. Before too long Margaret Leigh, Sarah, and Neza also came. Neza had a pink Rinascente bag which I found out was my gift from the three of them – very nice! No one else was as hungry as I, but we had a nice dinner anyway. I ordered prosecco right away, and as our waitress was opening the bottle, one of the guys in charge of the restaurant came over and asked if it was a special occasion. Neza said it was my birthday, and he said the prosecco was on the house! It was a lovely and unexpected gesture, and it saved us 15 euros! As antipasto, I had some crostini toscani, which are bread toasts topped with a “fegato” spread – in which the main ingredient is liver. I know it sounds gross to some, but don’t knock it until you’ve tried it. Some people don’t like it, but I really do! For my meal I got gnocchi rosé, which meant gnocchi in a tomato and cream sauce. It was really good, especially once I secured some cheese to sprinkle on top. To finish off the meal I got some tiramisu, of course. It is especially good at this restaurant, Yellow, which I have been to many times. In between main courses and dessert, I opened my present from the three Georgetown girls. It was some really nice lip gloss and a pretty scarf. I really appreciated their kindness and thoughtfulness.

After dinner, there was a bit of a strange situation in that the girls I ate with were all wanting to head home for one reason or another, but Bridie and some girls from the villa hadn’t been available earlier and wanted to come down and meet me at a bar. I told them where I was headed, and they said they’d get down as soon as they could, but there was still a gap. Luckily, Margaret Leigh ended up staying and chatting with me, which I really appreciated. When Bridie, Margaret, Laura, and Kate N. came, Margaret Leigh headed home, and I spent the rest of my evening chatting and drinking a bit with the others. It was really nice to socialize and have a few drinks, but not too many, and think to myself that finally the US would allow me to have them too! That will be a novelty upon my return this summer…

When I got home, there was a gift from the family sitting right there as I entered my room. I figured I should open it, so first I opened the card, which Lisa had decorated very nicely, complete with a drawing of me! The actual gift was Carlos Santana brand body wash and body scent. I didn’t realize that Carlos Santana had a brand of products like that, but it was a very nice gift! Today, Sunday, I slept in, and even extra because here in Italy we just “sprang forward” an hour today.

I feel really grateful for all the ways in which my birthday was special, and I will always be able to look back on celebrating my 21st in Italy. I received more presents and generosity than I would have imagined and feel lucky for that. And I look forward already to celebrating my 22nd next year at Georgetown, with many of my loved ones that are across the pond or in other parts of Europe and the world right now.

I think that will do it for this entry. The next week or two will just be working on schoolwork and starting my third class, until Allison gets here right before Easter. I will also have a pretty long break around the holiday, the closest thing I will get to Spring Break. (I can’t really complain about lack of breaks though – I only have class three days a week.) After Easter, Dave’s parents will be arriving in Italy and I am really excited for that!

Right after I publish this, I will try to get my most recent photos up – keep an eye out for pictures of some of my presents, my birthday celebration, and Lisa’s card to me!

Til next time!

Sunday, March 22, 2009

London, Visiting with my Grandma-in-Law, and Life in General


Alexandra near Buckingham Palace


Me with the Thames, Millennium Bridge, and St. Paul's Cathedral


Me and my pint of Strongbow cider


In front of Big Ben/the Houses of Parliament

So again, this is long overdue, but at least when I deliver I deliver a lot! I hope you will all excuse the delay and accept the reason that I have been very busy this past week – for reasons I will write about below.

I was blessed with an opportunity to go to London this past weekend! I timed the trip to coincide with the end of my friend (and one of my past and future roommates) Alexandra’s Spring Break stay to visit her friend Emi (who lived on my floor freshman year at school). I finished up my preparations Thursday morning, and set out to take the train to Pisa airport around 2 in the afternoon for a flight that left around 6 pm. Coincidentally, when I was at the airport I saw Megan, one of the 5 other Georgetown girls studying in my same program this semester. She was waiting to board her flight to Edinburgh to visit her friend Brigit (who also lived on my floor freshman year – Georgetown isn’t that large). After chatting with Megan until she had to board, I waited out the time until my own boarding call.

While we were waiting to actually board the plane, I had my first warning of the rowdy large group of Brits that was to take over – thus sort of tarnishing my quaint image that I wanted to ascribe to them all as a populace. One girl either my age or slightly younger was just generally carrying on with friends, but the most annoying thing was that she was periodically shouting “SHIT. SHIT. SHIT.” I really have no idea why. All I know was that it was unnerving, and at least a large portion of them seriously seemed drunk. Then as we walked across the tarmac, two of these girls including the SHIT one ran in order to pass me, a father and a daughter who were with their other family members. The father gave them a “what the hell?” look but they seemed undeterred. My new seating strategy became to distance myself from those two and their cohorts and I did a pretty good job. They leaped toward the middle of the plane and I remained toward the back (passengers were boarding from both ends). However, during the entire flight this group which seemed to be pretty large made the plane much louder than what one would normally expect, and I’m glad I didn’t need to sleep on the flight. My iPod also helped me drift off into my own world a little.

Upon arrival, I realized that the UK is more like the US in terms of security – this was the first of my travels in which I had my passport checked quite often, and I had to fill out an arrival card since I am not a citizen of the EU. Despite the extra task, the non-EU line at customs was much shorter than the EU line, and I reached the customs officer very quickly. She asked me all sorts of questions about my stay and its reasons and the friends I was seeing, which was slightly nervewracking but also just her job. After that I proceeded to an ATM to get my first pounds, and bought a Terravision shuttle ticket for downtown London. (Sidenote: I only had a black duffel carryon bag with me, which was nice to travel with. Aside from convenience, there was no way I was going to check baggage on Ryanair again after my Spain experience.)

After the shuttle departed, my first impressions of the greater London area were along the lines of “oh wow, they really do drive on the left side here. This is odd and sort of cool! Oh boy, we are going to the left in this rotary, not the right, how backwards. I could never drive here.” That was basically my stream of consciousness. Other than that, nothing was novel, especially since it was dark and we were on highways.

A little less than an hour later, the bus had arrived at the Liverpool Street stop, where I (eventually) found the Tube, London’s metro, got a ticket, and hopped on. I found the Tube blissfully user friendly (especially because of my memories of negotiating Madrid’s metro) and was impressed with the fact that it has cushioned seats! Very nice.

I was headed to the Bond Street stop, which was near Alexandra’s hotel. I benefited hugely from generosity on this trip – from Alexandra, her grandfather, and Emi as well. In the first instance, Alexandra had me stay with her at her hotel, which was in turn furnished by her grandfather as a birthday gift to her. He’d also been thinking of coming along at one time, but decided against it. In any case, suffice it to say this was a very very nice hotel, quite the opposite of where I’ve been staying this year and probably nicer than anywhere else I will ever stay in my adult life. I savored it and tried my best to enjoy it while remaining ever appreciative of generosity. I found the hotel pretty easily, and asked the front desk to call up to Alexandra’s room. She and Emi were there, and said they’d meet me coming off the elevator. A very nice porter/elevator man showed me to the elevator and took my bag. And get this – the elevator had a COUCH in it! Or at least something resembling one… crazy. So of course, I sat down. Why not? Anyway, we reached the top and Alex and Emi were there to meet me. It was so nice to see them, especially Alex, after such a long time apart. The elevator man took my bag all the way to the room for me, because that’s what they do in places like that. By that point I had a bit of traveling fatigue, so it was really nice to see a large comfy bed and be in a warm lovely place with Alexandra and Emi. We talked a bit, and when she found out I hadn’t had real dinner Alex said it would be more than fine to get room service, and she was going to get tea anyway. (Sadly, Alex had a cold for most of her trip.) Since some hot food did sound really good, I looked at the menu and opted for a ham and cheese sandwich, made with gruyere cheese. High end comfort food, yum. Alex ordered that and her tea, and before we knew it, the food was upstairs. It was very satisfying and yummy.

After a little while, Emi headed back to her dorm (she is spending the year at the London School of Economics) and Alex and I settled into bed after making a rough plan for the next day. In the morning, early enough but not too early, we got up, took our showers, and headed down to breakfast, located in the hotel’s beautiful lobby area. As you might expect from again, a place like that, breakfast was gourmet and delicious. The orange juice was amazing, the coffee was lovely, and my eggs benedict and toast were also delicious. I hadn’t had eggs benedict in a while, so that was fun. (For one thing it contains more fat and certain ingredients that the Italians would never consider consuming in the morning.) Alex and I also relished the chance to chat at a relaxed pace over breakfast. And she very much enjoyed her porridge with blueberries. And yes, it was actually called porridge. England is so cool.

After breakfast, Alex and I headed off on foot toward Buckingham Palace for the changing of the guard. The whole time I was just soaking in and only half believing the fact that I was in London! It has such a strong place in pop culture, and I feel like Americans and Brits have lots of similar cultural references, that it was sort of fulfilling and exciting to be there in a way that other cities just hadn’t been. We got to Buckingham Palace, where the crowds were already amassing, and found a spot. We stood around a while and took photos while we waited for it to start. In truth, less happened out in the oval area (which we were facing) than I thought, but it was still fun – we got to see guys in different uniforms marching by, and horses, and the band played a bunch of music inside the gates. Toward the end I did make my way toward the gates and got to see a bit of what was going on there as well. Either way, I’d seen Buckingham Palace and witnessed the changing of the guard. It was a fun first thing to really do in London.

After the ceremony, Alexandra and I took the Tube to Southwark, south of the Thames and near Shakespeare’s Globe – our intended next attraction. Despite previous trips to London, Alexandra had never been there, and for me it was a must – every summer for 7 years I went to the Oregon Shakespeare Festival with my grandparents, and after missing the past 2 years I am returning this year! In Ashland, where the festival takes place, there is an Elizabethan style outdoor theater, but this was a chance to see an even more authentic tribute to Shakespeare in his home country and city. Upon entering the Globe, we realized there was a performance for schoolchildren going on, so the regularly scheduled tours of the actual theater weren’t running. We found out that there would be another tour at 4:30, and since you had to pay for the exhibition when you entered the tour, we decided to come back later on.

After leaving the Globe, we looked around for a place to eat. We saw a pub called Founders Arms that had a great view of the river. We liked the look of the place and headed on in. After managing to find a couple seats, we perused the menu and went to the counter to order. When I saw that they had Strongbow cider, I knew I had to get it, as Dave had required it of me when he heard about my trip. He trained for about a month with Sandhurst (the British equivalent of West Point) last summer and had many opportunities to enjoy Strongbow back then. So that was decided. With my Strongbow, I got a tuna sandwich with chunky avocado salsa, which turned out to be more appetizing on the menu than in person, only because in the salsa there were lots of pieces of cucumber, which I don’t really care for. It was okay to eat once I acted like a kid and picked out the cucumber, but I may still have ordered something else if I had known. Alexandra got shepherd’s pie and it was delicious! I know because I got to taste!

After lunch, we will had some time before 4:30, so we crossed the Millennium Bridge (which was in a fave movie of mine, Love Actually!) to get to the north bank and St. Paul’s Cathedral. We did go inside, but Alex had seen it already and it wasn’t worth spending 8 or so pounds to really see the whole thing to me, so I admired as much as I could for free and then we headed out. We took a nice stroll back across the river to the Globe, and by that point it was 3:30 so we decided to try our luck. A bit of confusion ensued, as the man at the desk wasn’t positive that the 4:30 tour would go on – he said he’d need clearance as the show could run over. We were a bit frustrated by the lack of certain and confusion, but we ascertained that our best chance to see the theater was to come back at 4 to see. With a little bit more time to kill, we went to a café in the Globe complex and got some Earl Grey tea. The café had a nice ambience, and it was fun to have real English tea (not to mention warming!). Right around 4 we headed back, and happily, the man at the desk was selling tickets to our desired tour. Until it started, we took a spin through the exhibition, though I really wished I could have had more time to go through it. Regardless, it was more important and exciting to get on the tour, so by 4:30 we were down there ready to go.

The tour was great – we had a really great guide who was interesting and illuminating and funny. She told us about the process of reconstructing the Globe (done as much as possible to the specifications and using the same methods as were used for the original, which burnt down and had one successor dismantled). She also told us about the shows they do now and the production of Romeo and Juliet that was put on that day for the schoolchildren. She explained that the show was staged to connect to modern gang life among young Londoners – a problem in which many of the children may have been involved. It sounded like the show was a success, and it was fun to hear about how they were making Shakespeare accessible. So yes, the tour was a great experience, especially with my OSF background. Alexandra and I were both really glad it worked out to go.

After the Globe, it was time for us to go to Covent Garden, a really cool neighborhood in London where we planned to get dinner before we saw the famous play “The Mousetrap” by Agatha Christie. Alexandra wanted to see it, so Emi and I were happy to go along, and Emi had bought our tickets earlier that day so we could meet her later on (Emi wasn’t with us for the entire day because she had class). Sadly, Emi was running late so Alexandra and I ended up doing dinner on our own. Even more sadly, things got rushed, and though we were able to enjoy some delicious soup, our entrees arrived only in time for us to take a couple bites. We felt bad especially since our waiter was so nice, calling us “love” all the time and just generally being friendly. But alas, we had to go, and that was disappointing but necessary so we could see the show! Then, getting to the theater was stressful, as Alex had to talk to Emi on the phone to figure out, we asked a bunch of people who weren’t that helpful, and finally I was able to use my guidebook map to get us there. So we got there on time and successfully, but then Emi wasn’t there, and she had all our tickets – so it seemed as if our rush might go to waste. But just in the nick of time, Emi arrived, and we were able to take our seats and enjoy the show! It certainly enriched my experience, as I like seeing plays in general, and this one is so famous. In the tradition of the show (which as you might have guessed is a mystery) they asked us at the end not to reveal the surprise ending – which I won’t, but as I read on Wikipedia, after 50-something years the ending is somewhat common knowledge. If you really really wanted to know, you could look it up. But I won’t tell you!

After the show, Alex, Emi and I walked around a bit and eventually ended up near Trafalgar Square. We went on one of the Golden Jubilee Bridges, which was really pretty in its own right, and had a great night view of the river, the London Eye, and the Houses of Parliament in Westminster. We took some pictures and just generally enjoyed the evening. After a busride back to the hotel, we decided to go for drinks at the lounge downstairs. After much consultation of the extensive menu, I decided to try a drink called the ginger sling. It was made with vodka, lime juice, fresh ginger, and ginger ale. It sounded intriguing, especially since I like both lime and ginger. And indeed, it was really good. It was nice to sip while chatting with Emi and Alex about all sorts of things.

Sidenote: Though I go out rather infrequently here, when I do, I try to educate myself more about mixed drinks and cocktails. It is a subject that interests me, but it’s very new in my life, especially since I am still underage in the US! (Though that changes soon…) Step by step though I suppose…

After we sat around a while, Emi headed back to her dorm and Alex and I headed upstairs for one last night of wonderful sleep before Alex had to leave the next morning, to go back to the US. We met Emi downstairs so we could all have breakfast together – once again in the wonderful ambience and delicious food. I got an omelet which was quite good, though I think when I said I wanted everything except mushrooms, that somehow got misconstrued to mean that I DID want mushrooms… luckily I don’t mind them that much though, and I wasn’t going to really worry about it. I still got to have wonderful orange juice, coffee, and buttered wheat toast! Buttered toast is one of my favorite simple pleasures in life…

But I digress! After lunch, Alex checked out of the hotel and was off to the airport. It was a short amount of time we spent together, but I was grateful to have it, especially in a fabulous place like London! Since Alex checking out meant I needed somewhere to spend my last night, Emi was generous enough to have me sleep in her dorm room at LSE, so after parting ways with Alex we headed there. I checked in at the front office, saw the dorm, and dropped my stuff off in Emi’s room. Then we headed off to Westminster together, to see the Houses of Parliament and Westminster Abbey. In another situation, I might have wanted to try to get into Westminster Abbey, but there were many things I wanted to do that day, and there was a line, and one had to pay, so I opted against it. It was still nice to see it from the outside! After that visit, Emi graciously agreed that she could have lunch with me too, and we eventually found a nice looking pub. I do love those pubs! They’ve got them everywhere in London, how fun. Anyway, *this* pub was where I finally had fish and chips, fulfilling one of my goals for the weekend. Was it the best food I have ever had? No. But it was good and warm and tasty and I was experiencing part of London’s famous culinary culture – and therefore, it was satisfying. I had yet another kind of cider too, Bulmer’s this time. It was also really nice to talk to Emi and hear about London and her life in general.

After lunch, we parted ways, as I was going to hit up a couple museums and I knew that Emi was tired and might have things to do. It can be nice to go through a museum at one’s pace anyway, and I really didn’t want to impose on Emi. Mostly, I was grateful that I got to eat with her instead of by myself. My first stop after lunch was the National Gallery, full of wonderful works of art. As an added bonus, free admission! There was so much to see there, so I had to pick some priorities, but I made a point of seeing some of the famous French artists that I studied senior year of high school (including Cezanne, Degas, Monet, Van Gogh, and others). Van Gogh’s famous “Sunflowers” was there, and I spent a good few minutes just studying it. I think I really enjoy seeing impressionist works in person because you can see with great detail and clarity the strokes and colors they use to create such a stunning image. I have found with Van Gogh above all that you can just see his hand at work, as he really globs the paint onto the canvas. I find it really interesting. After I’d seen the French/contemporary art, I saw a few highlights such as Rembrandt and Vermeer in the 18th century section, then headed even more backward in time to the section dominated by Italian artists. I made a point of seeing works by Raphael, Botticelli, and Leonardo da Vinci, and recognized other artists I had encountered here in Florence.

Once I felt like I had spent about the right amount of time in the gallery, it was time to depart for another world class museum, the British Museum, which as it turns out houses an immense amount of archeological and cultural heritage from around the world. Some of the most famous artifacts there include the Rosetta Stone and the “Elgin Marbles” – statues from the Parthenon that were controversially taken back to England. I made sure to see those, along with other classical/antique artifacts that reminded me of the time I spent in Turkey last June (on a classics themed trip and class). Then I made my way up to other galleries, among them mummies and ancient Egyptian artifacts, Etruscan Italy, and much more. In particular at the British Museum, I felt there was so much to see and no way to really appreciate it all. I was sort of sad to pick and choose and skim through many sections, but that’s what I had to do. Toward the end of my visit, I went to a Japanese exhibit and to the Islamic exhibit, which were interesting ways to end my time in the museum. Oh, and the British Museum also had free admission! How wonderful!

By the time I finished up there, it was getting late in the afternoon, and I knew there was no practical way to visit the Tower of London, which Alexandra had so enthusiastically recommended to me. It was unfortunate, but a sad byproduct of only having two full days to spend in London. I did however take the Tube in order to get to a part of the city where I could really see the Tower Bridge, and used the opportunity to take some photos and enjoy the late afternoon sun. This is as good a place as any to share some happy good fortune I had – I did not have to use my umbrella ONCE in London – a place so renowned for rainy weather. This was especially appreciated considering the umbrella saga I had with Marissa in Zurich… also, my boots are quite far from waterproof at this point, and I find touring cities to me much more pleasant when my feet are dry.

After my short trip to see the Tower Bridge, I took the Tube back to Covent Garden to meet up with Emi and some LSE friends of hers for dinner. Later on, they were going to a charity fashion show that one of them helped organize, and at first I thought I might not go, but during dinner I decided, why not, and decided to go for it. First I need to back up and talk about dinner though!

When I met up with Emi, she was with three of her friends – Elizabeth, who is Scottish, Kayley, who is Chinese, and Winston, who is from China but goes to Georgetown (we actually realized we’d had IR discussion together last year). We ended up going to a place called “Pizza Express” for dinner, since Elizabeth had some coupons for it, or “vouchers” as they call coupons in England. It was sort of strange going to Pizza Express in the same way that I imagine it will be strange to go to Olive Garden or other “Italian” restaurants in the United States. It had Italian vocabulary and Italian-inspired offerings, but it was just that, inspired rather than authentic. My “Quattro formaggi” (four cheeses) pizza was delicious, but it was just a strange feeling to see a reappropriation of a cuisine I am so familiar with and keep thinking “wow this is so not authentic.” But inauthentic in no way means bad! Also it was nice to get to know Emi’s friends, and I was really grateful to be included in their group for the night.

After dinner we went to the fashion show. It was put on by the Chinese Student Association at LSE, along with other groups, and its purpose was to benefit and bring awareness to the continuing crisis in the Sichuan province of China, following their devastating earthquakes last year. The profits of the show went directly to UNICEF in order to help victims of the quakes, and children in particular. It was fun to go to a fashion show, and to witness what the students had put together in order to benefit a good cause. Plus, I sort of felt like I was in a real life version of Project Runway.

After the show, Elizabeth, Emi and I went back to the dorm, and after a quick shower I went directly to sleep. I had to get up really early the next morning, because despite a somewhat reasonable time of 8:25 for my departure, getting to the shuttle coach bus, taking the coach, and allowing enough time for check in meant a wake-up time of 3:30 am. So it is, when traveling sometimes. So I got as much sleep as I could, then got up, shoved on some clothes and my glasses, and headed off. Poor Emi insisted on waking up too to accompany me to the city bus which would take me to the coach bus, and I felt really bad but was also so grateful that she was willing to venture out at such an hour. We walked across the bridge and waited for the bus, which came after too long. I said good-bye to Emi and tried to impress upon her how grateful I was for her hospitality and generosity. After a short ride, I got to Liverpool Street Station and the Terravision bus stop. I got there quite early, and I could tell a long version of waiting, but basically, I got impatient, it was cold, and it wasn’t very enjoyable. Also, the shuttle was slightly late, so being there so early was even overkill. Luckily there were plenty of other travelers awaiting the shuttle, so I didn’t feel unsafe. Just groggy and cold.

But alas, the bus did arrive, and during the ride to the airport the sun rose. Things went smoothly at the airport. There Ryanair had a nifty system where I could just use a little kiosk to check in, and that was really fast and easy. Since I didn’t have to check my bag, I could skip that line and proceed directly to security. Once I was through there, I still had plenty of time. The signage said that as long as your gate wasn’t listed, they wanted you to remain in the lounge area rather than heading to the gate, so I took advantage of that time to have a cappuccino and chocolate muffin for breakfast, then spend some of my remaining pounds on a bit of internet time. Not long after that, I headed to the gate and eventually boarded the plane.

Returning to Italy was pretty uneventful. After I landed in Pisa I took the train right back to Florence. I will admit that I wasn’t sad to feel the warmer Italian sun on me as we arrived… mmm. I got back to the house around 2 pm in the afternoon, and downloaded pictures and talked to David online for a while. Then, around 5, it was time to get ready to head to a hotel downtown, because Dave’s grandma and her friend Carolyn had just arrived in Florence!

That’s right – I had a quick turnaround from my London trip to spending time with Dave’s grandma and Carolyn. Since she knew about my trip, Grandma BB (as I will refer to her hereafter) really wanted to come visit, or rather “stow away in my suitcase” as she’d told me. Dave told her that she really should go for it if she wanted to, so after she verified my schedule, she booked her trip! Happily, her friend Carolyn (with whom she’d traveled before) could come with her. Before they met up with me here in Florence, they spent a few days in Rome, during which Grandma BB got to visit the Roman Forum – which was a lifelong dream of hers, as she studied Classical Archeology at Wellesley during her college days. That is the story of how I was lucky enough to have my grandma-in-law want to come visit me in Florence! (And yes, technically it’s future grandma-in-law, but that is just legalities…)

Sunday night, I greeted Grandma BB and met Carolyn at their hotel, and we started by sitting and chatting for a while, after, of course, I showed off my engagement ring and we all complimented David’s taste. ;-) Afterward, we went to a nice little trattoria for dinner by the hotel, and enjoyed some good food along with more good conversation.

The next morning, I had two classes, and met up with Grandma BB and Carolyn after I got out around 1 pm. In the morning they’d gone to the church of San Marco, and that got rave reviews from them. We had another very good meal together, lunch this time, and then we went to the church San Miniato al Monte, the one I always talk about which was the first place I ever went in Florence, when Lucia took me there the morning I arrived. We were able to enjoy the beautiful church and the stunning view of Florence. I never get tired of going to San Miniato al Monte, especially when it is a beautiful sunny day. We stayed there long enough to see and hear the vespers service put on by the monks at the church – using mostly Gregorian chant! It was one of those things that I’ve been intending to do for a while, and I finally did it. Grandma BB and Carolyn liked it too. We went back to the hotel after that, and I headed home for dinner while Grandma BB and Carolyn rested and did something simpler and smaller. The next day after class, I met them at the exit of the Uffizi, where they’d spent their morning. As Grandma BB freely admits, she could spend all day in there, so she had a grand old time appreciating the art. I took them to Trattoria Anita, a place I first went to with Dave where one can get a primo, secondo, and contorno (side dish) for only 7 euros – a great deal! The food was simple but delicious, as it tends to be here. After lunch we were off to Santa Croce, one of Florence’s most famous churches, to take in the art there as well. Carolyn also did some shopping for family near the piazza in front of the church, while Grandma BB and I enjoyed the weather and people watched. After Santa Croce we headed back to the hotel to relax until dinner. Grandma BB told me even before her arrival that she wanted to take my host family out to dinner in order to meet them, so I found the evening that worked best and it was that day, Tuesday.

I’d made reservations at Perseus, a restaurant near where I live that has the best bistecca alla fiorentina I’ve had, and many other delicious foods. We all met there right around 8, and had a lovely meal – though especially the process of ordering was confusing as I was speaking both languages at once and translating the menu for Grandma BB and Carolyn, and of course there are so many choices of courses and so on. Anyway, we eventually got the food ordered and enjoyed good conversation, though of course with me translating. Switching back and forth is one of the hardest things to do for me, linguistically, and a couple times I said a whole phrase to Grandma BB in Italian before realizing it was the wrong language… whoops. It was really nice that she could meet my host family and that my host family could meet her. And while I hoped it wasn’t too much trouble on a weeknight, I figured it was nice for Cristina not to have to worry about dinner for once. The family really seemed to enjoy themselves too, so that was nice (though Lisa was a bit bored at the beginning especially).

The next day, due to the threat of a custodians’ strike, I only had my first class of the day rather than both. There was uncertainty over whether the building would be open, so my Storia della Chiesa professor decided not to hold class, as she has a long commute. (I like how I write this with such normality now… but this is the type of thing I spent last semester getting used to.) Therefore, I got out of class at 11 and met Grandma BB and Carolyn a bit early. I talked to them while they packed for their departure the next day, and then we went to the area by Palazzo Pitti to search out lunch, as our afternoon plan was to go to the Giardino di Boboli – the beautiful gardens surrounding the palace. Sadly, the place I wanted to eat lunch, another place I’ve visited in the past, was inexplicably closed, so we found an alternate that was also very good. We had the typical long lunch, then made our way to the palace, bought our tickets, and spent the rest of the afternoon in the gardens. For limits of time we only saw a small part of them, so I’ll have to go back sometime to see even more. It was nice to see them for the first time though! Afterward we headed back to the hotel and after a bit more conversation I bid farewell to Grandma BB and Carolyn, as they were off to Rome for their return flight the next day. It was so nice that a part of my “in-law” clan came to visit me (and Grandma BB will be followed by Dave’s parents in April). Many people are taken aback when they hear that HIS family is visiting in addition to my own, but I have been able to get to know them as Dave and I have been together since we were both 16. Also, I think deep down inside a lot of people want to go to Italy, and why pass up the chance this year, when a friendly free guide who speaks the language is living here? I think this is mainly what has led to my four sets of visitors in four months, starting with my parents in February and leading to my grandparents in May. It’s always nice, to see family, share Italy, and in the case of adult visitors, be treated to some nice meals. Today (Sunday) is Grandma BB’s birthday, and Dave and his family are over at her house hopefully hearing all about her trip!

As for life in general, let’s see. I am starting to see my return to the US as it dawns on my mental horizon. I think this became especially true once my mom bought my new return ticket and we set the date in stone – June 17. That gives me less than three months from today. To be totally honest, I am quite eager for it. I do remind myself constantly that I have to enjoy what’s left of this experience, but it’s been a long time away and it will be nice to return to my home country, family, and friends. Also, another part of the honest truth is that I have been picking up lots of ideas and thoughts about the wedding I’m planning (oh yeah, my own!) and I am anxious to be back so I can actually get things done. Thank goodness Dave has been great and booked our ceremony and gotten in touch with our likely reception venue, out of necessity and convenience, but at the end of the day, I enjoy this type of thing more than he does. I am going to be using the summer to hopefully get a lot more done and organized, and I am also excited to share the process with my family and friends, and Dave whenever he isn’t training. So yes, that is part of my being antsy!

However, in the short term there is also a lot to look forward to. My 21st birthday is next weekend, which will be odd in that in the here and now, nothing changes. But being American, it still feels like a rite of passage, unique among birthdays… and it will make things different when I return. However, I suppose I can’t complain that I have had all these extra months to enjoy Chianti and other beverages of the alcoholic variety when eating out, even as a 20-year-old. I am hoping to eat dinner out with friends who are here in Florence to celebrate – hopefully at least a decent number of them can come. At any rate, I am looking forward to the chance to get a little dolled up and go out to celebrate, though at times it feels bittersweet since my very closest friends and family are on the other side of the pond, or in other countries.

Toward Easter, my friend Allison is coming from Paris (her blog is linked here!) to spend a little time in Italy, Florence included. Allison and I have a lot of the same friends (and past roommates) at Georgetown, and it will be really nice to see her. I know she has another friend in Florence as well, but we have already tentatively discussed possibly going to mass together on Easter.

And in late April, David’s parents are coming to Italy on their trip! I will be doing part of it with them, notably Naples and the Amalfi Coast, and of course their time in Florence. I am really excited because if it weren’t for them, I probably wouldn’t be getting down to that part of Italy, and I have definitely wanted to! I’m also just so happy that I’ll get to see them in general, because like I said, I’ve been hanging around Dave’s family for many years now, and they are definitely like additional family for me – I am lucky when it comes to in-laws!

Oh yeah, there is also school. It’s been going along fine, except that already second module is going to start, not this week but the next I believe, and I haven’t nailed down for sure my third class, the one I will take second module. I did e-mail the professor of the one I’d like to take, so hopefully I will hear back soon that it’s alright with him – I felt it better to check because professors are picky about foreigners or people outside a certain track of study doing their classes. Otherwise, I like my other classes and it’s nice that I know people in them. Eva and I have had a lot of lunches together and have both classes together, and she is a valued new friend. Also, in Storia del Risorgimento there is Neza, one of the Georgetown girls, and Diane, an American from Smith College who happens to be in the class. We joked the other day that there is a foreigners’ table, as many of the Italians were seated on the other side of the room that day… but I don’t think there is truly segregation going on. Either way, it puts me more at ease to have a built in group of “outsiders”. I have a lot of reading for class, but it is on a pretty flexible time schedule as most of it is meant to provide background knowledge – knowledge that many of the students would have already had. I should also be meeting with at least one of my tutors for this semester soon as well – the one Neza and I will share for the Risorgimento class. I am also going to be writing a paper on Giuseppe Garibaldi for the class, and doing some sort of presentation/paper for Storia della Chiesa. So there is enough school to keep me busy – and I hope I can stay on top of it and not let it overwhelm me. Regardless, the pace of schoolwork is nothing like Georgetown, and I only have class three days a week…

Speaking of Georgetown, I am unnaturally excited for pre-registration, which starts online next week. If you’ve read my blog all year, you know that waiting until just before the semester starts to put a schedule together has been an adjustment for me, along with the general confusion about class schedules and administration here. So, pre-registration is exciting in that I can see course offerings and put a schedule together MONTHS in advance – Georgetown seems so incredibly organized. In addition, it’s a signal that I really am going back, and I love Georgetown, so that is a cheery thought. And lastly, I will be handpicking classes to finish my major and certificate – therefore classes that fit my academic passions and are the more familiar, engaging, classes that I was used to my first two years of college (also, they will be taught in English).

Well, that is my update on London, visiting with Grandma BB, and a hodge podge of the rest of life. I am so sorry that this took me so long, it was a combination of being very busy and very lazy. But I hope the length and detail makes up for it a bit! To see more photos, please see my Picasa page – there are a ton from London!

Thursday, March 12, 2009

Zurich! And other updates


Real Swiss fondue!


Grossmunster, one of the important churches in Zurich


A night shot that I love!


Marissa and I and the view from Lindenhof (a park)


Beautiful Alps on the train ride back to Italia


Introduction: I wrote this blog while offline, finished it yesterday (Wednesday) but found I didn't have internet when I got home last night. Now it's Thursday morning, and I am at the library to use internet before leaving for London later today. Wow! London! So here is the post:

This past (long) weekend I was lucky enough to head to Zurich, Switzerland with my friend Marissa from Georgetown, who is spending this semester in Milan. We’d seen each other briefly when I returned from Spain, but it was a very short time spent together and we agreed it would be fun to travel together. After some research, we found some train deals from Milan to Zurich (which basically reward planning ahead) and purchased tickets at a steep discount! I had also been harboring a desire to go to Switzerland at least during the beginning of the year, after hearing about so many wonderful trips others had taken there, most of all Kristen!

I only have class Monday through Wednesday, which made it easy to leave pretty early, on Thursday morning to be exact. To save money, I took a slower train to Milan, which left around 11:30 am and arrived around 3:00 pm. Luckily, I allowed plenty of time to get from my house to the station. I had to go to Firenze Rifredi, a different station than usual, and I’d never been there before. I ended up getting off the bus too early and having to walk quite a ways, and ask for directions. And my feet got wet. But it’s okay, because I made it on time and everything was lovely. Except that my feet stayed wet.

I also had to be patient during a 4 hour “layover” in Milan, as our train to Zurich didn’t leave until 7:10 pm. Again, this was a consequence of my need to save money. I actually managed to pass the time okay, but I was so glad when Marissa arrived around 6:30! Oddly enough, it was sort of hard to find a place to sit, and almost the entire station was connected to the outside and therefore cold, but I made the best of things. In fact, President Obama helped me pass the time – I’d bought a paperback copy of his “Audacity of Hope” recently, so I started reading that and it helped me occupy myself. I also bought an odd assortment of items at the grocery store in the station: extra batteries, a chocolate bar, water, and a box of sushi. Not great, but it wasn’t very expensive and at least it didn’t seem spoiled! I also went to the bathroom and changed my socks, which was key!

So right, Marissa got to the station, and we spent some time catching up and talking about things. She also was excited to see my ring, and of course I was happy to let her admire and listen to her lovely compliments! It’s definitely been fun to be able to show it off a bit since I got it back – and I always make sure to let Dave know how many people compliment his taste!

Soon enough it was time to get on our train. Though we were assigned aisle seats, I managed to switch with another man (after a bit of confusion) so he could be closer to his wife and I could be next to Marissa. We settled in for the ride. We were sad it was dark because we couldn’t see the beautiful Switzerland scenery, but we knew we could look forward to a daytime trip on Sunday when we returned. Mostly we talked during the ride, and toward the end we dozed a bit. Sooner than we thought, we were in Zurich (even though the train was late). Since we got in after 10 pm on Thursday, we couldn’t stay in the cheapest lodging option available, a hostel in the old part of town, so we had arranged to stay at a budget hotel the first night. We found it without too much trouble, checked in, and went up to our room to find out that it had its own bathroom… which was a problem because we’d had to correct their original confirmation giving us a room with a bathroom – we wanted a room with a shared bathroom, and a much lower rate to match. After briefly considering it a bit, we went back down to reception to talk to the man who’d checked us in. He said that all the other rooms were full, but when we explained the situation, he saw the paper trail of e-mails and acknowledged that we were right. He assured us he would talk to/leave a note for the person who’d check us out in the morning, and that is how we managed to get the room with a bathroom for a cheaper rate… through no “fault” of our own! It was really nice and we slept very very well. Breakfast was also good and included – I enjoyed some toast, orange juice, cereal, and coffee. Sadly, we had to check out there and head over to our hostel for the next two nights – as it was better for our wallets. The rate situation worked out well enough, and the hotel did keep to their promise to charge us the lower room rate.

After we checked out, we headed just a short way down the street to our hostel, which turned out to be up many steps and past some sort of kitchen, that seemed to be for a restaurant. All weekend Marissa and I smelled their food and wondered who they were cooking for! We made it up to reception and checked in – we could even put our stuff in the room since the beds were free. We were in a 6-bed room for all females, made up of three bunkbeds. This was my first true European hostel experience, in part because I have always found cheap-enough singles when I’ve traveled, and in part because I have often traveled alone. With Marissa I was not worried at all about the hostel situation – I’ve also heard that Switzerland is generally a less “sketchy” country, I kept all valuables with me, and it was relatively secure being in a room with only 4 other women at the most. We both had to take top bunks, which wasn’t optimal but it was fine. After dropping our stuff off, we were finally ready to go out and explore Zurich!

We started out by walking around by the river, which was beautiful. In a marked contrast with Firenze’s river, the Arno, the Limmat was incredibly clear and filled with swans, ducks, and other water birds. It was so refreshing to see! We also found ourselves fascinated with the architecture and peaceful, fresh atmosphere. Our first destination was a church called Grossmunster – one of the most important in Zurich. It was founded by Charlemagne over the tomb of the city’s patron saints, and is important for its historical role in the Swiss-German Reformation. It was really neat to see a church that was so different from Italian ones, yet beautiful in its own way. At the front there were beautiful stained glass windows in which the dominant color was red – it had a very striking and beautiful effect. After Grossmunster, we crossed the river and visited Fraumunster, another important church. Sadly, we couldn’t take photos inside. Both of us would have loved to capture the incredible stained glass windows by Marc Chagall. Unexpectedly, these windows were done in 1970 – remarkably contemporary! Marissa and I spent a while just contemplating and admiring them. The juxtaposition of such a modern aesthetic in a centuries-old church was unlike anything I’d ever seen, and I really enjoyed it. I’m sure there are photos of the windows on the internet… I highly recommend trying to track some down!

After Fraumunster, we found Bahnhofstrasse, the main thoroughfare of Zurich and a world famous street for its shopping. We were immediately attracted to Sprungli, a “confiserie” full of delicious chocolates and other treats. Not only was the smell wonderful, but the vast majority of their wares were also beautiful to look at, and I made sure to take photos! Neither of us was ready to commit to buying anything yet, but we did a nice survey and agreed we had to come back. The most intriguing thing there was something called “Luxemburgerli.” Just by appearances, they sort of look like miniature hamburgers, and I definitely wanted to know what they tasted like. They also came in all sorts of colors and flavors and were generally fascinating. More on them later!

After Sprungli, Marissa and I found a store she’d read about with a really neat, large, cosmological clock. The store is locked as a matter of procedure, and the women working there had to let us in. It felt odd to go in and obviously just want to look at the clock, but it seemed like the norm for the store. On our way out, one of the women gave Marissa some information packets on the clock in English, further confirming our suspicion that they were used to this sort of occurrence.

Afterward we continued to stroll along Bahnhofstrasse. I saw a restaurant where I was thinking we could eat, and pointed it out to Marissa. We also headed over to St. Peter’s Church, which apparently has the largest clock face in Europe. Inside it was relatively simple, yet beautifully decorated, and it was just another on our resume of Zurich churches for the day! That visit also took us into some of the quieter quaint neighborhoods just off Bahnhofstrasse. Marissa and I were both struck by the relatively quiet, pedestrian friendly nature of the city. Except for the main highways along the outside and the trams running through the streets, there was very little traffic and many people out walking. It made getting around in the city very pleasant and enjoyable. Over and over during the weekend, I reminded myself that I was in the largest city in Switzerland – it was hard to believe!

After St. Peter’s, it was time to head to lunch. Luckily Marissa was game to try a place I’d heard of as recommended for fondue, both on the internet and by Kristen. We went in and got seated in a cute little nook in what seemed to us a typically Alpine decorated restaurant. So cozy! We decided to get one order of fondue and another plate – pasta with vegetables, and share both, though nominally I got fondue and Marissa got the other dish. She also got a beet soup to start with her meal, and I enjoyed my tastes of it more than I thought I would (I don’t really like beets themselves, at least in the forms I’ve tried). Then, the fondue arrived, and it was wonderful. I had the fork, the pieces of bread for dipping, and of course the bubbling, hot, slightly boozy cheese. It was delicious and so fun! And my tastes of Marissa’s pasta were also good. The only negative aspect of our lunch experience was that toward the end of the meal, while we were waiting to order espresso and coffee, our waiter effectively ignored us in favor of rushing out the orders of a large group that had come in. Eventually we tried to track him down and make eye contact, only to realize that his shift was ending! Even so, he changed into normal clothes, sat down at a table, had a cigarette, and signaled that another waiter would take care of us. Our impression was that Marissa would have an after lunch drink included, so she got an espresso and I got a cappuccino (when we finally ordered). The only thing was when our bill came, the waiter said the espresso wasn’t included… yet all the other things listed as included, had been. Confusing. Anyway we figuratively shrugged our shoulders, paid, and left for our next stop – the Kunsthaus museum. After walking around a bit to find the actual entrance, we got our tickets. Then I was told my purse was too big and Marissa was told she had to carry her purse on her arm… to avoid setting off alarms, apparently. So I had to get a locker – but first exchange two 1 franc pieces for a 2 franc piece to make the lock work.* It was all a bit of seemingly unnecessary trouble, but hey, their museum, their rules.

*If you are puzzled by the fact that I said “francs,” here is the explanation: Switzerland isn’t in the European Union! It might surprise some to hear, but it’s true. I suppose their unwavering neutrality keeps them out of the group that all their neighbors and most of their continent belong to. They are part of the Schengen agreement, which reduces border controls, but not the EU, and thus they still have their pre-Euro currency, the Swiss franc (CHF). You can also spend Euros and get francs back in change, but I ended up using mostly ATM Swiss franc withdrawals during the trip. Okay, end of explanation.

Because Kunsthaus was closing about an hour after our arrival, Marissa and I decided to target our visit to what we were most interested in – namely the impressionism exhibits and others nearby, along with the Dadaist art. (Dadaism originated in Zurich!) I always enjoy the chance to visit art museums, especially when there is art I know something about, namely French (thanks senior year French class!). So we admired some Van Gogh, Degas, Cezanne, Monet, Rodin, and others, and then explored a bit more of the modern art section.

We left the museum a bit before closing, to find that it was still raining outside, much to our chagrin. That was when it got to be a bit more unpleasant. Since we knew we wanted to take a boat ride on the lake the next day, we went down to the departure point to double check the schedule and scope things out. On our way, Marissa’s umbrella broke and the material of mine came a bit undone. Here begins the Saga of the Umbrellas, for which you need some background.

Marissa’s situation was simple enough – she’d had her umbrella for a while but she knew it was wearing out. I, on the other hand, was on umbrella #4 of my time in Italy/Europe. The first one (from Target) disappeared while I was shopping in September. The second, my friend Cindy gave me because she’d found it somewhere – a few months later, it broke. The third, I bought for two euros near the post office and it had lasted a while, but the band that velcroes around it had always been messed up, and while I was in Spain the material detached from the end of one of the spokes. So the day before I left for Zurich, I’d bought another for 3 euros at a Firenze store. I had high hopes for it, but alas, as the wind blew us around down by the lake, the material came unfastened on it too. That wasn’t so bad, but then Marissa pointed out that it wasn’t open all the way, and I went to fix it, and the entire bottom part of the umbrella came detached from the top. Great. Marissa’s umbrella just kept getting turned inside out in the wind and she decided to buy a new one. The early evening of Friday might have been our low point. It consisted of me feeling my feet get ever wetter and colder, and us dealing with our umbrella issues. We did a little bit of shopping, where I bought socks and we both bought new umbrellas. And while I was trying on possible new shoes (didn’t find any good ones) I changed socks! We both got slightly nicer umbrellas in an attempt to avoid getting more bad quality ones. I kept lamenting the quick demise of umbrella #4, but it was legitimately broken. And what’s more, the little part where you hold it totally fell off the rest of the umbrella later that night! Photo evidence is online…

So now I own umbrella #5. It is a lovely green color and I hope it lasts a while… maybe? Marissa on the other hand, bought a black umbrella, and we had high hopes for both. Yet, what do you know, later than night while on a goose chase for café’s from our guidebook, her NEW umbrella broke. Not even kidding. Basically, we have really bad umbrella karma. Either that or I brought my bad umbrella karma with me and transferred some of it to her. Either way, I won’t dwell on that part of our trip too much, because it was annoying but it did not overshadow everything else!

Eventually we found a café from my book (after discovering that the first one was closed, at least for renovations) and had some much deserved hot chocolates. Then we had to search for a place to feed us at 9:00 pm – we hadn’t been hungry earlier. Being in Zurich, where they eat on a northern European or American-like schedule, made me realize exactly how conditioned I am to Italian eating schedules… at 6-7 pm I wasn’t even hungry yet! The idea that restaurants would close early, possibly, was strange to me. I guess that’s what happens after this long. Anyway, after a bit of trial and error we found a decent looking place. The other difficult thing was that everything, food included, in Switzerland, is expensive. Even when one figured in the exchange rate, which accounted in part for higher prices, the “real” price of the food was still quite often more than we wanted to pay. Anyway, we both got one entrée and ended up doing some sharing and tasting. I ordered “rosti” done with eggs, since I’d heard rosti where a local specialty. They are sort of like hash brown potatoes, as it turns out. So as Marissa said, I basically had breakfast for dinner (hash brown potatoes with eggs). But it was very good! Marissa got macaroni with meat and apple puree (sort of intense apple sauce, basically), and that was also really good. Since we were sharing, we each ate at least a portion of the other person’s dish. We hung out at the restaurant for a while after we finished eating, just talking and enjoying each other’s company. I got a beer which our waiter said was typical for the area, but even I could tell that it wasn’t *that* great (and I am no beer connoisseur). We got our bill brought to us around 11:45 and were told they were closing in 15 minutes, so about 10 minutes later we started to head out. It was a bit odd sort of getting kicked out, but we didn’t feel extremely guilty, because at least two tables full of people were still sitting, drinking, and laughing as we left – with the waiters starting to wave and say “good night!” at them.

So anyway, we headed back to the hostel and eventually hit the hay. The next morning, we were incredibly glad to see the sun shining, and cautiously thought that maybe there would be no need for umbrellas or the pesky problems they caused that day. We ate a little bit of food in the hostel, and then Marissa graciously waited for me while I went to Starbucks to get coffee. Yup! Starbucks! I hadn’t been there since my last month in the US, last August, and it was kind of fun to go back. Italy doesn’t have Starbucks, which isn’t really surprising, because espresso and caffe macchiato at the bar don’t really fit with the whole Starbucks culture. Italians actually think it’s pretty amusing that Americans put their coffee in cardboard cups and walk around with it. Anyway, I enjoyed the “novelty” of the experience and got a latte to go. Marissa and I planned on talking a funicular called the Polybahn up to a viewpoint I’d read about. The ticket machine was a little bit confusing, but eventually we figured it out and hopped on board. The ride was really short but brought us to a viewing platform that had a great panorama of the city. With the sun shining, latte in hand, and a beautiful view of the city to look at, I was a happy camper. We took some photos and then made our way back down. We planned to get a very small lunch that day, for money reasons and in order to make ourselves hungry for an earlier dinner, so we headed to a pretzel stand we had seen on Bahnhofstrasse the day before. Marissa had a bit of language confusion, but we did get our pretzels and enjoyed eating them on a nearby bench, surrounded by the Saturday ambience and people strolling around. Then we went further down the street and stopped in at Sprungli to make our purchases. I got some Luxembergerli along with some other small chocolates with nuts inside. I got a little pamphlet on Luxembergerli – they’re basically made of meringue which is the “bun” part of the hamburger structure, and the inside is cream. As I said before, there are tons of flavors! I tasted some later on in the day and they were very good, and unlike anything I’ve ever tasted before.

After Sprungli, we went down to the boat dock to await our departure. We opted for a shorter cruise instead of a longer one, and I’m glad we did. The boat stopped in different lakeside towns, and so it was an interesting mix between public transportation and just a pleasure ride. We wanted to sit outside in order to enjoy the air and the scenery, but that meant we were thoroughly chilled by the time we got back. Regardless, we both were glad we got a chance to see Zurich from the lake and enjoy the surrounding scenery a bit.

When we got off the boat, both of us were eager to find some sort of indoor place to warm our numb toes, so we got hot chocolate. Again. No regrets! After that, we took a nice lakeside stroll toward the botanical gardens of the university. It was nice to enjoy the “promenade” area along the lake, and heading toward the gardens we saw the most residential and “normal” part of Zurich we had been to. Surprisingly, some of the houses reminded me a bit of architecture in certain parts of Connecticut and Massachusetts, sort of the nice/historical kind. We found the botanical garden, and while many of the plants outside were obviously sort of dead or in hibernation, we got to go in three different climate controlled domes to see a large variety of plants. One was tropical, another desert-like, and another subtropical. It was quite a contrast with the outside temperature, and we noticed our camera lenses fogging up from the humidity in the tropical dome! We enjoyed looking at all the different plants and then headed back into downtown Zurich by way of the same lakeside promenade.

We went back to the hostel at that point, just to freshen up a bit and drop off our extra weight (namely, chocolate purchases). Then we went to a beer hall I’d found online for some atmospheric (if slightly touristy) Swiss/German food. It was called Zeughauskeller and was situated in an old armory just off of Bahnhofstrasse. It was a very large place (larger than I’d ever see in Italy) and was bustling around 6 pm, when we arrived. At first we worried if we’d get seats, but they said as long as we could finish by 8 pm, we could sit at a table (it was reserved for 8 pm). That wasn’t a problem, but I found myself thinking “this would never happen in Italy.” We both got soups to start, for me onion soup. While it wasn’t really cheesy like the kind you get in the US, it was still good – the actual onion broth part had more depth of flavor than the US version, where the cheese and the bread are definitely the stars of the show. For my main course, I got bratwurst and their special potato salad. The bratwurst was milder than I expected, but good, and the potato salad was really good. I also got a German beer that was described as “amber” and I definitely found it more interesting than the beer from the previous night. I felt slightly sick by the end of the meal, whether from the food or congestion or something else, so that wasn’t incredibly fun, but I did feel better once we got back outside and away from the hordes of people (by 8 pm thank you very much). After dinner we stopped by a café/bar we had seen, called Café Duda. It was particularly notable because it was situated either in the same building or the same physical location as Cabaret Voltaire, where Dadaism was born in the early 1900s. Though the options for drinks were a bit different, we both got drinks we ended up enjoying and spent a bit more time chatting. We were both quite tired though, so we headed back to the hostel before too long.

The next day, it was already the day of our departure. Our train wasn’t until 1 pm though, so we checked out by 10 like we were supposed to, then walked around a little bit more before coming to pick up our stuff by noon and head to the train station. As we walked around, we stopped at a sort of elevated park called Lindenhof, which afforded us yet another neat view of the city and the chance to admire the scenery. Then we tried to go see one of the Catholic churches in town, but it was closed. A lady from the church saw us and we had sort of an awkward interaction, but we basically got the idea that we couldn’t go in right then. We did get invited to have some coffee with people from the church, but we went along on our way.

As we headed to the train station after picking up our bags, we had the perfect amount of time to make our way there, find something to eat, and spend most of our Swiss francs, without too much rush but without too much waiting time. It all felt so well timed! Then we boarded the train, and sure enough, got amazing vistas of the Swiss Alps for the majority of our ride back… it was really neat. Soon enough we arrived in Milan and Marissa and I parted ways. Happily though, my train (set to leave about 45 minutes after we arrived) was already on the track, so I just went directly to it and settled in for the ride. That ride did seem a bit long, but I had my book to read and music to listen to, and it passed. I got back to the house around 9:30 pm, and my Italian family was still awake, and had graciously saved some food for me. I shared my chocolate purchases with them (as I’d intended them as a gift for us all to share) and got great feedback and gratitude – especially from Lisa!

Language sidenote, if you are wondering: Well, compared to how much Spanish I spoke in Spain, I spoke very little German in Zurich. I had Eva teach me a few phrases before I left, but mostly I used “Sprechen zie English?” (Do you speak English?) And most people did. I did notice some things about the language and enjoy hearing it, and wished I spoke more, but it was a lot easier to “fake it” and pick things up in Spanish than in German. Ah well.

Since these three class days (Monday, Tuesday, and today) have been smack dab in the middle of two trips, I’ve felt much busier than I usually do here, since just as I settle back in from one trip I am gearing up for another – my trip to London which starts tomorrow! It’s all a bit surreal that I get these two opportunities so close together, but this is how it worked out. I realized last semester that I really wanted to visit London, and I chose this weekend because my friend Alexandra is currently there for Georgetown’s spring break. We only get one full day in the city together (Friday) but I know it will be great to spend a little bit of time with her, and I can’t wait to experience London! I feel like it is such a cultural reference point in various movies, in history, in literature, and in general, so I’m really excited. The biggest downer at this point is that I am trying to get rid of a cold (mostly congestion, though now a bit of a cough) so I hope that doesn’t negatively influence my trip too much. Either way, I will have this next great trip, and then be hanging around Firenze without any major trips in the near future, which is probably good for now, to take a bit of a breather. There will be a bit more excitement when I get back from London though, because my fiance’s grandmother will be visiting Florence with a friend of hers. That’s right, my (future) grandmother-in-law is coming to visit! It’s only for a few days, and I have class, but I hope to be able to spend some time with her and I hope she enjoys her time in Firenze.

Classes are going pretty well. I still have to determine my third one, which I’ll be taking second half of the semester. I just chose my topic of concentration for History of the Risorgimento, for the paper I’ll have to write. I am going to do it on Giuseppe Garibaldi, the charismatic military/man of action hero of Italian unification. It seems like a good topic for me because it’s pretty basic, but it will be good for me (being foreign) to study one of the key figures in so much depth. I also still have lessons in History of the Church, but haven’t officially chosen my presentation topic yet. I do find the course interesting though, in that I have studied Islam and Islamic politics at Georgetown, but this is my first academic encounter with the Catholic Church, really. Yet my perspective is different because I was raised, and am, Catholic. So I have sort of a vague understanding of the history of the church, but for once I am learning the history in a more analytical, historical sense, and going beyond the type of church history one learns in normal history classes. I certainly don’t have any overarching epiphanies yet, but it’s interesting.

So far the main thing I have for classes is a lot of background reading. Since both are classes meant to deepen understanding, and not general survey courses, the professors seem willing to have me (and other foreigners) in their classes, but recommend we read some general histories to provide ourselves with some background, which seems fair. So basically I have many packets and lots of material to read, which I’m trying to get going on, but there’s still a long ways to go. I suppose my work pace will have to pick up over the next weeks, but for now it still isn’t as demanding as Georgetown (which is good because I keep leaving the country on the weekends!). Regardless, even though I’ve been a little tired being sick lately, it feels good to have a semblance of a schedule again, and have specific intellectual tasks to complete (in contrast to my long vacation period!).

I have gotten even closer to my new German friend, Eva. Since we have both of our two classes together, we see each other a lot and we eat lunch together basically every class day. It’s both fun and interesting to talk to her about anything and everything. Today we got into a really interesting conversation about culture/politics/history from our differing viewpoints, just as a byproduct of being German and American. She talked a bit about how Germany as a nation has struggled to deal with its WWII past, and the ways in which that period in the country’s history still influences them today. Just one example is that she feels like patriotism as such isn’t really admissible in Germany, and that now their military is much smaller and instead they’ve taken pride in things such as science, economy, and culture. Our conversation expanded beyond that but it’s too much to type here!

Alright, I think that is going to be it for now. You can bet I will be posting after my trip to London, and then hopefully reasonably often after that!